Playstation SCPH-1001 Laser

[retrogameplayer]

Hi everyone,

I'm curious if anyone here has had any luck in fixing the worn out laser issue on early PSX models. I've read some of the guides and different approaches (i.e. http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html and http://miked50.tripod.com/repair.htm) and am wondering if it's worth the hassle when used consoles are so cheap.

That said, I have two '1001 consoles with the worn tracks, complete with loading/FMV skipping issues and I'd rather save them from going to the dump. I was also thinking of adding a small GPU cooler to the power supply side. I think this might help as some early debugging stations (DTL-H1101) feature an external power brick and I've no loading problems with those.

Any thoughts?

[Administrator]

You can get a new laser assembly off of eBay relatively cheap. If you really want to lower the heat output from the PSU, you need to replace the regulator with a higher wattage one.

[DD-Indeed]

I replaced worn out laser unit couple months ago, cost about 15 dollars. Got it from here: dx.com
OEM-quality product and works fine. And they even got the different versions of it, because there's different kind of drives between the SCPH-models, so make sure, that you open your machine and read the version model from the back of the CD-drive. Easy to do.

[Tommy]

I replaced worn out laser unit couple months ago, cost about 15 dollars. Got it from here: dx.com
OEM-quality product and works fine. And they even got the different versions of it, because there's different kind of drives between the SCPH-models, so make sure, that you open your machine and read the version model from the back of the CD-drive. Easy to do.

I've recently acquired one from eBay (from a US seller) but found it not to work — the laser head moves up and down a few times as though focussing but then the disc never spins. So that's a little sad but buyer beware, etc.

More troublingly, I now can't get the ribbon cable for the original to go back into the connector. So the machine is completely unusable. Any advice on that? I don't want to damage anything so I've been very delicate so far; is there an appropriate tool? Would pliers likely do more harm than good?

[DD-Indeed]

Hmm, was the replace part model same as the original ? Sounds like that the laser unit, that you bought, wasn't same that the original. There's four kind of versions of it, KSM-440ACM, KSM-440ADM, KSM-440AEM and KSM-440BAM, so first of all compare the old one and the new one, that are they same version, the model number reads on the back of the laser unit, here's a pic: http://deutschermanfred.de/data/uploads ... heit/2.jpg

If they match, then there's likely problem, that either the ribbon cable for the laser or power cable for the motor is wrong or broke or the whole unit is broke. Ribbon cables can be also found from the dx.com, which I mentioned earlier or you can buy another console for spare parts, that is the same model (SCPH-1001 in you case). Did you get new ribbon cable with the new laser unit ? The ribbon cable is tight to place back again and must be done carefully, but it's not difficult to do, just use hand, no tools. When you get it going, it just pops in to it's connector and there it is.

[retrogameplayer]

You can get a new laser assembly off of eBay relatively cheap. If you really want to lower the heat output from the PSU, you need to replace the regulator with a higher wattage one.

Replacing the voltage regulator... thats a really good idea, one I wish I'd thought up. Perhaps Ill do that and add a little fan nonetheless. As for the laser, I picked up a KSM-440-BAM today on Amazon for $9. From what I can see, it appears to be the most reliably built, die-cast sheet-metal. My understanding is that I will have to reuse the top part of the original assembly/housing on the SCPH-1001's drive and break some legs off the BAM to get it to fit properly. Hopefully this simple fix works as I like the '1001 and a $9 fix is great. Ill follow up once I get my part in 2-6 weeks... China....

[Tommy]

My understanding was that, electrically, the different mechanisms are interchangeable — with only the physical aspects changing (length of cable, whether it has little feet, a few millimetres here and there in shape around the top). Is that not the case?

Anyway, I took the easy way out and ordered a DTL-H1101, which the seller guarantees fully to work. The added attraction of an external DC power supply, both for longevity and to allow me to return with it to Europe without any surgery required, was the icing on the cake.

[retrogameplayer]

... Anyway, I took the easy way out and ordered a DTL-H1101, which the seller guarantees fully to work. The added attraction of an external DC power supply, both for longevity and to allow me to return with it to Europe without any surgery required, was the icing on the cake.

Just an FYI, I have a couple DTL-H1101 consoles and they feature the poor quality laser assembly. I do think the external transformer helps a great deal to keep the heat down inside the console. I still haven't gotten my replacement drive (shipping from China.... ) but I am thinking this will be a very quick and easy fix. Thankfully, the motherboards seem to last quite well on the up side.

[Tommy]

Just an FYI, I have a couple DTL-H1101 consoles and they feature the poor quality laser assembly.

There doesn't seem to be a PlayStation without a poor quality drive, at least when compared to CD players as a whole. Saturns never seem to have any sort of problem... maybe that's where the extra $100 went?

But, yes, I'm promised that the device has had very light use — it's completely scratch free and currently 100% functional. I had an original SCPH-1002 from launch weekend (was it September 1996 in the EU?) and that lasted me through until about mid-2000 so I would not describe myself as a heavy gamer even when that's the main purpose for which I have a device; this one I'm barely going to use for tasks beyond booting PSXSERIAL. And that's only until PSIO appears. Maybe that'll happen in less than four years?

Otherwise I've got the modded SCPH-1001 to safely practice my drive replacement skills in, and if the 1001 and the 1101 have the same physical hole for the drive then that's even more helpful than it might otherwise have been.

Oh, and it wasn't much money. Nowhere near the $350/$400 that all 1101 eBay options currently seem to be. I assume that's just the usual sellers hawking perpetual 30-day auctions to those who are happy to pay for the immediate convenience.