[HELP] Bricked PS1

[alex9099]

Hi everyone,

I have a ps1 that in this moment is bricked... i thing i short something on the paralel port, what can i do? What "fried" inside?

[Administrator]

What does your PlayStation do exactly when you power it on?
Please explain your situation better.

[alex9099]

What does your PlayStation do exactly when you power it on?
Please explain your situation better.

Well.... Absolutely nothing, only the green light, no rotating CD or image on display

[Administrator]

What does your PlayStation do exactly when you power it on?
Please explain your situation better.

Well.... Absolutely nothing, only the green light, no rotating CD or image on display

A fuse has been blown. Probably the 7V rail.

[alex9099]

What does your PlayStation do exactly when you power it on?
Please explain your situation better.

Well.... Absolutely nothing, only the green light, no rotating CD or image on display

A fuse has been blown. Probably the 7V rail.

Where is that fuse? Is it easy to substitute?

[Administrator]

Where is that fuse? Is it easy to substitute?

Look at the schematics.
No, it's not an easy swap.

Also, if you don't know what you're doing, then don't touch it. Just get another PS1.

[alex9099]

Thank God! It was only the fuse that says 50 (tested with multimeter with continuity, then with amperage mode I Bridged the fuse and it worked )
What is the value of that fuse? Where can I get it?

[Administrator]

I believe the 7V rail has a 1 Amp fuse. I'm not sure where you can get it to be honest.

[alex9099]

The ps1 obviosly dont like me!!

It gived me a shock when i was putting the cover (where the cd reader sits) ...

[LordHexahedron]

It's a 0.4A fuse and not a 1A fuse.
Pretty much any 0.4A fuse will do if you can get it in there without bridging anything.

the only 1A+ fuses are in the power supply board (and in the relatively high current section of the mainboard) but the green light coming on indicates the problem to be elsewhere.

this is one way to solve it if you can find a 400ma (0.4A) 12v+ fuse


Ideally you might want to replace it with a resettable fuse in case it blows again. (it's likely a blown PS605 fuse btw, they're the ones that tend to go).

Bridging it is a bad idea, the fuse is there for a reason and whatever caused it to break can brick your entire console if you don't have the fuse to safeguard you.

More specifically, depending on the type it may be relatively easy to obtain.

if it has "15", "20" or "50" written on it it's just a standard CCP2E15, CCP2E20, or CCP2E50 micro SMD fuse. (these are very common and the most dominant on the mainboard).

it could also be a CCP2E10 (0.4A, blows at 1A), 15 rated 0.75A, blows at 1.5, 20 rated 1A, blows at 2A (notice a trend here?), 50 is rated 2.5A, blows at 5A.

here's the datasheet for the CCP2E15 fuse
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-p ... P2E15.html

It happens to also have a convenient chart for other sizes, although the sheet itself is likely nonsense to you as it's mostly in Japanese (some parts are in English)

Although finding these fuses may prove difficult, I found them wholesale - minimum order 10 fuses
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/- ... 9.1.VPJu11

here's another minimum 10 order
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/C ... .22.VPJu11

if it's any other fuse you'll have to do the searching yourself, the CCP2E15 is a common fuse to blow though.


However, any fast acting 1210 form factor SMD fuse that works at 12v+ and that breaks at 1.5A will do for the CCP2E15 as a replacement.
this works for every other fuse, although you need to match the amperage and get the voltage as close as possible ( a 14V fuse would work fine, an 8V fuse would break)

Fun trivia: on older revisions the CCP2E15 fuses were sony PS605 fuses, presumably they changed to CCP2E15 because 0.4A wasn't enough and kept blowing from normal load.

[Administrator]

How do you know it is a 0.4A fuse exactly? I couldn't see it in the schematics.

[LordHexahedron]

I don't know for a fact, I could never find any data on the PS605 fuse (sony part, not available to consumers - no datasheet to be found) so I had to trust forum posts on it - someone allegedly measured it to be 400mA and when they replaced it with a 400mA fuse it worked without breaking.

the CCP2E15 fuses found in later units are however very easy to find data on [see datasheet linked in my original post]

I'd personally just stick a CCP2E15 in there, they're cheap enough at less than $4 for a pack of 10 fuses. (39 cents per fuse + shipping)
Here's a seller that's more likely to deal with consumers (industrial wholesale isn't perhaps the best option)

10 fuses

Although it's more economic to buy 50 or 100 pieces (12 cents per fuse and 8 cents per fuse respectively), esp. since the shipping rate is the exact same as the 10 fuse option!
50 fuses

100 fuses

I'd provide ebay links instead of aliexpress links but I couldn't find any ebay sellers who currently stock CCP2E15 fuses, aliexpress is nice enough - same concept as ebay, although I can't guarantee any seller (even the ones I've had experience with in the past but this holds true for ebay as well).

Now, what fuse to use depends on what's printed on the dead fuse.
if it says "15" on it, then it's CCP2E15 fuse.
if it says PS605, 0.4, 0.7, 0.5, 1.5 or some other nonsense it's a PS605 which is either 400mA or 1A
If you think that it's a 1A fuse as shadow seems to think, then I might recommend the CCP2E10 fuse as it breaks on 1A
10 fuses
50 fuses
100 fuses

And if you think it's a 400mA fuse (I have no credible citation for this, I'd go with the CCP2E15 or CCP2E10) then I have no recommendation aside from ghetto-hacking it with a 400mA fuse like in the picture I inlined prior (I don't recommend this, it looks unprofessional and could potentially be a fire hazard depending on the fuse you pick).

anti-lawsuit legal blurb (I am not a lawyer, probably has loopholes - please don't sue me):
NOTE: I cannot guarantee that the CCP2E15 fuse is actually safe to replace the PS605 with, if the PS605 is actually 400mA then this 1.5A fuse may allow a destructive current through - in no event will I be held liable if you install a CCP2E15 fuse instead of a PS605 fuse, nor in the event of installing any other fuse advised by me directly or otherwise.

EDIT NOTE: Oh yes, any of my advice assumes you have the skill required to solder a surface mount component, it isn't much harder than soldering a through hole component - it just requires that you have reasonably steady hands and either a loupe or reasonably good eyesight.

EDIT NOTE 2: Oh yes, I can't really give any guarantees on how well the CCP2Exx fuses from china perform as compared to the Japanese ones found in original SONY products, they SHOULD work well enough but YMMV, see above note on me not being liable for any damages incurred, accidental or otherwise.
the manufacturer might be but it's probably hard to sue them.

EDIT NOTE 3: Here's a Japanese seller
I doubt you can read the page and even if you could you'd have to have a proxy in Japan to receive the package and ship it back to you (which is doable, if you know the right people or know where to look), the nice part about these is that they're the ones actually used by SONY... (MOQ 円40/2000PC which is probably above what a normal consumer would need to have or want to pay, I mean that's like ~800 dollars (on the bright side... 2000 high end surface mount fuses!)) (EDIT UPDATE: Well... they might actually ship internationally, given that it's industrial supplies...)

[LordHexahedron]

Oh yes, I did some more research - if you don't trust random knockoff chinese fuses (I don't blame you, I don't either) then perhaps the more reputable Bel C1F 750 - it's within spec, although it'll look off. But it doesn't matter much if the fuse looks off, still looks better than bodging in a through-hole fuse. (Digikey 507-1877-1-ND)