240v on SCPH-1000 Power supply?

[ady05113]

Hi, i just bought a SCPH-1000 from eBay and wanted to ask you guys about its power supply. I know its from Japan and surely they using 100v for this console. I want to ask can i use the original power supply that comes with it on my 240V here in my country ? Because i saw it's written something like 250v on the power supply when i dissemble it. Sorry for my bad English.

Thanks in advance.

Here is the picture:

[Gradius]

The fuse is rated until 250V and 2A. Nothing anormal to see here, it only means it will not blow up out of nothing until >250V.

About the "swap", if the pin out (or output) is 100% same, then you can do it just fine.

I would test it with a multimeter before hand just to be sure.

Now if you are trying to use that PSU made in Japan (hence 100V only), no way you can do that!

[ady05113]

Hey thanks for the information. I know it can be use up to 250v. But just need some confirmation here. Thanks again and by the way i just chipped my SCPH-1000 with some used chip from broken Playstation console. Then i boot some backup disc its NTSC/U and PAL games. It works but something wierd happens. It just skips the playstation boot logo not for NTSC/J games. Is that normal for this console? Just wondering.

Thanks again.

[Shendo]

Yes. That's normal for japanese consoles.

[smf]

Hi, i just bought a SCPH-1000 from eBay and wanted to ask you guys about its power supply. I know its from Japan and surely they using 100v for this console. I want to ask can i use the original power supply that comes with it on my 240V here in my country ? Because i saw it's written something like 250v on the power supply when i dissemble it. Sorry for my bad English.

A standard Japanese 100v power supply does have some components rated at 250V on them. However plugging it into 240V will cause the big capacitor to blow up. I've done it myself by accident, I thought I had picked up a PAL console but it was my SCPH-1000 that I had out.

It turned on and booted up for a few seconds then there was a pop and a load of smoke poured out of the back like a smoke machine (but it's a horrible smelling chemical that has vaporised and makes a mess everywhere).

It may have been replaced with a 240V power supply, I don't know how you would tell. I use a 110V transformer to power mine.

I have now added PAL/NTSC labels to them all, so hopefully I will never do the same thing again.

[nocash]

I know it can be use up to 250v. But just need some confirmation here.

Just to be sure: That was about the FUSE. You can remove the fuse (the small glass cylinder), and re-use that thing in european hardware. For the overall power-supply: Don't use it with 230V.

For identifying supply boards (in case you've swapped them, and don't remember whether they were 110V or 230V boards):

From SCPH-550x service manual:
1-468-176-11 (SCPH-5500) (JP) C001=125V, C003=200V
1-468-218-21 (SCPH-5501) (US) C001=250V, C003=200V
1-468-218-31 (SCPH-5501) (US) C001=250V, C003=200V
1-468-219-13 (SCPH-5502) (EU) C001=250V, C003=400V
1-468-243-11 (SCPH-55??) (unspecified region, maybe Asia), C001=275V, C003=N/A

From SCPH-900x service manual:
1-468-366-11 POWER BLOCK (SCPH-9000) (JP) C001=275V, C003=200V
1-468-365-11 POWER BLOCK (SCPH-9001) (US) C001=125V, C003=200V
1-468-303-13 POWER BLOCK (SCPH-9002) (EU) C001=250V, C003=400V (called 1-468-303-11 in schematic)
1-468-243-11 POWER BLOCK (SCPH-9003) (AS) C001=275V, C003=N/A

My own power supplies:
1-473-383-12 (SCPH-1002) (EU) C001=275V, C003=400V (old supply with 7pin connector)
1-468-219-12 (SCPH-5502) (EU) C001=275V, C003=400V (newer supply with 5pin connector)

Best would be going by the board numbers, eg. 1-413-997-13 in your case (the last two digits are probably just a revision, so any info for "1-413-997-" should do it). If you can't find specs for your PCB, then C001/C003 might give some hints:
C001 (one of the capacitors near supply input) is 250V..275V on most boards, which isn't too useful (except, if it is 125V, then you can be sure that it won't work with 230V (C001 connects directly to the supply input)).
C003 (the big capacitor) seems to be 400V only in european versions, so that might hint that the board works with 230V (of course, there is nothing that would prevent Sony from installing 400V capacitors on 100V..110V boards, so it isn't a 100% proof).

[ady05113]

Sorry doubled post. -deleted-

[ady05113]

Hi, i just bought a SCPH-1000 from eBay and wanted to ask you guys about its power supply. I know its from Japan and surely they using 100v for this console. I want to ask can i use the original power supply that comes with it on my 240V here in my country ? Because i saw it's written something like 250v on the power supply when i dissemble it. Sorry for my bad English.

A standard Japanese 100v power supply does have some components rated at 250V on them. However plugging it into 240V will cause the big capacitor to blow up. I've done it myself by accident, I thought I had picked up a PAL console but it was my SCPH-1000 that I had out.

It turned on and booted up for a few seconds then there was a pop and a load of smoke poured out of the back like a smoke machine (but it's a horrible smelling chemical that has vaporised and makes a mess everywhere).

It may have been replaced with a 240V power supply, I don't know how you would tell. I use a 110V transformer to power mine.

I have now added PAL/NTSC labels to them all, so hopefully I will never do the same thing again.

Hey, guess what? I did some test on my Japanese SCPH-1000 PSU in the picture above, it's labelled with 250V that's should good to go with 240V here in my country.

But, what happened then is the capacitor blows up in a few second after i put on the AC direct cable. I'm so shocked seeing the smoke came out lol.

Thank god i didn't connect the 7 pins cable to the motherboard. Here is some of the pictures after the big black capacitor blowns up.

[Blown Capacitor 1](
[Blown Capacitor 2](
[Blown Capacitor 3](

Can someone explain what is going on here?

[smf]

Can someone explain what is going on here?

tldr; Don't plug Japanese or US PlayStations into 230V because you will blow up the big capacitor on the power supply.

The post you quoted told you exactly what to expect but you did it anyway.

[ady05113]

I just want to test it. Because its labelled with 250V. Didn't expect it to blows up when i put 240V inside.

[smf]

I just want to test it. Because its labelled with 250V. Didn't expect it to blows up when i put 240V inside.

Well now you know that the result of your test was the same result as when I did it by mistake. I fixed mine by replacing the capacitor, I suggest you do the same.

[TriMesh]

Can someone explain what is going on here?

Yeah, the input filter cap on a Japanese power supply is rated at 200V, so when you connect the board to European mains (nominally 230V AC RMS) then it tries to charge up to the peak line voltage (230V * sqrt(2) - about 325V) - since it's only rated at about half that, it pulls large amounts of current, overheats, boils the electrolyte and eventually the cap vents to release the pressure.

The cap obviously needs replacement - if you're lucky, that's it. You might also find that the fuse blows after the cap is replaced - in this case, start by checking the diodes in the input rectifier, since they sometimes get damaged too.

[nocash]

Can someone explain what is going on here?

What we tried to tell you was that the "F001 250V 2A" text on the mainboard did mean the fuse should be rated "250V 2A".
The text didn't mean that the other components on the board would accept 250V.
Anyways, blowing up a capacitor is a good experience too. Smoke looks nice & one sees why to be careful with higher voltages.

If you want to buy a new capacitor, use one of same type. The rating should be still visible on the destroyed component, it isn't perfectly visible on the photo... but it looks like "150uF 200V", right? The other letters like "NH" or "JAPAN" shouldn't matter. And recurse the "+" and "-" pins when installing a new capacitor (minus is marked by the huge gray vertical line on the capacitor, with the "-" symbol in it).

If you get it repaired, use an external 230V-to-110V voltage converter before giving it another try. Though it might be cheaper/easier to buy a PAL-playstation (or to use the power supply from a PAL playstation in your NTSC playstation).

[ady05113]

Thank you for a long explanation guys. Yeah, lesson learnt lol. Luckily i have extra PSU from a broken console and its rated with 250V. I will replace the capacitor for the broken PSU soon.

Just one quick question. Lets say if it pops@blows up while the 7 or 5 pins cable is connected to motherboards, will it damages any component on the board too?

[Administrator]

Just one quick question. Lets say if it pops@blows up while the 7 or 5 pins cable is connected to motherboards, will it damages any component on the board too?

No, it should be alright. The primary side is what will go long before the secondary kicks in. There will be leakage current of course, but the transformer and regulators on the secondary will ensure they are hindered.

[TriMesh]

Thank you for a long explanation guys. Yeah, lesson learnt lol. Luckily i have extra PSU from a broken console and its rated with 250V. I will replace the capacitor for the broken PSU soon.

Just one quick question. Lets say if it pops@blows up while the 7 or 5 pins cable is connected to motherboards, will it damages any component on the board too?

You would probably get away with it - the regulator would reduce the duty cycle to the point where the power rails should remain in spec. Of course, if you left it plugged in for an extended period after the cap blew up it's possible that something damaging would get though.

It's also possible that it would do some more serious damage to the PSU - increasing the line voltage also increases the peak current through the transformer, and when this hits a critical point the core saturates which results in a very large further increase in current which often exceeds the ratings of the switching device. Eventually that goes short, and this normally overheats the input rectifiers and makes them fail short circuit. Some time after this, the fuse gets around to blowing.

[ady05113]

Hi guys, how can i convert the 100v power supply to 240v? I'm thinking to change the big black capacitor and the fuse. Will that work? Sorry. I really don't know much about this.

[nocash]

Hell, no. It's a 100v supply. Not a 240v supply. What are you trying to do there? Burning down your home? Keep your fingers off it.

[Yuri^Cybdyn]

i can only say what i did: i changed Diods (like you said "black-resistors") , and ! big Capasitor for 400v! i got part from broken PSU of 220v, to fix/remake from 110v (NTSC-U ps1) to 220v . it worked well, but, little noise i heard. like zr-zr-zr.. even louder in idle state)))

another way i used power-down transformator 220->110. but i was long ago

[Greg]

Thank you for a long explanation guys. Yeah, lesson learnt lol. Luckily i have extra PSU from a broken console and its rated with 250V. I will replace the capacitor for the broken PSU soon.

Just one quick question. Lets say if it pops@blows up while the 7 or 5 pins cable is connected to motherboards, will it damages any component on the board too?

If your broken console it's a PAL version, use his PSU in you new NTSC/JAP console.