SIOCONS compatible USB Cable

[danhans42]

This is a simple guide on how to make a SIOCONS compatible USB-SIO cable that works under dosbox. Its simple because I am rubbish at writing guides and howto's. Admin - if this needs moving to a better section by all means please do.

Anyway.. down to business

You will need the following :-

• @ PSX Link Cable (look on eBay)
  @ 3.3v FTDI Module (This MUST be a genuine FTDI232 module – if its a module with a counterfeit FTDI chip on it, it WILL NOT WORK!) It also must have ALL handshaking lines present (RTS/CTS/DSR/DTR)
  @ Either ft_prog232r (for linux - http://rtr.ca/ft232r/ )
  or ft_prog (for Windows - http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities.htm#FT_PROG )
  @Multimeter
  @Soldering Iron
  @ Some patience..

First job is to get your PSX link cable. Personally I would chop it clean in half so you have a spare bit of cable to play with for a second spare cable or for another project. Then you need work out which pins correspond to which coloured wires within the cable. You can do this with the resistance mode on the meter.

Easiest way I found it to hold the connector firmly somewhere and type the corresponding pin number in a text document, followed by the colour. Once finished you should have something that resembles the following

• 1 – brown
  2 – pink
  3 – green
  4 – black
  5 – yellow
  6 – red
  7 – not connected
  8 – orange

Dont worry about pin 7 – its never wired up in a link cable (its +3.3v and not required)

Then, cross reference the colours with the pinouts here http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=66

• 1 – brown RTS
  2 – pink GND
  3 – green DTR
  4 – black CTS
  5 – yellow TXD
  6 – red DSR
  7 – not connected
  8 – orange RXD

Once you are 100% sure that your pin/colour mapping is correct you can fire up your soldering iron and get soldering. You need to connect the pins up as follows :-

• PSX FTDI Module
  RTS CTS
  GND GND
  DTR DSR
  CTS RTS
  TXD RXD
  DSR DTR
  RXD TXD

This simply crosses over the signals so that the PSX transmit is connected to the USB receive and so forth..

Once this is all done you can move on to reprogramming the eeprom on the FTDI Module. I did it on Linux but it is easier to do on Windows.

For linux just download and unpack the archive to a folder. Then open a terminal and cd to the folder and type make. That should be it.

Once the compilation has finished (it only takes a few seconds).. connect the FTDI to your machine and type

Code: Select all

sudo ./ft232r_prog -–dump

. You should see output something like the screenshot below.



Notice in the dump window towards the bottom you can see rts_inverted = 0.. this is what we are going to change. The reason being is the PSX uses inverted handshaking, and lucky for us the FTDI module allows to invert these lines without the need for any extra hardware. To do this type the following line into the terminal

Code: Select all

 sudo ./ft232r_prog --invert_rts --invert_cts --invert_dtr --invert_dsr

.

Then you should see the following :-



Once that has completed type

Code: Select all

./ft232r_prog –dump 

into the terminal again, if it has been successfully programmed you will see the screen below.



For windows users you would need to use ftprog from FTDI.. the screenshot below shows the correct screen you need to use, just check the boxes for inverting RTS, CTS, DSR and DTR and write back to the device.. simples. Make sure you read the settings back after unplugging and replugging the FTDI back in to your PC.. just to make sure the settings have been written correctly.



If you get an error the likelyhood is you have a module with a clone FTDI chip on it. The problem is they dont allow eeprom programming, they probably dont even have one. If you have got one by mistake either return it or re-use it as a simple PSXSERIAL cable, they work fine for that.

Once you have done thatyou just need to set up your Yaroze environment in dosbox, and also add the line to the dosbox-0.74.conf file for the serial port eg :-

serial1=directserial realport:ttyUSB0 (linux)
serial1=directserial realport:COM5 (windows)

check either dmesg on linux or device manager on Windows to see what TTY/COM port is being used.

Then you need to burn the cracked boot disc for the PlayStation side and also copy the Yaroze environment over to dosbox to use and you are done.

Hope its of some use. I will revise it and add more screenshots and pictures to make it easier to understand.

Just to add.. I have used an FTDI which was configured for 5v use and it worked fine, but i would really recommend getting the proper 3.3v module just in case.

Have fun and happy Yarozing!!

[Administrator]

Nice guide. Well done

[gwald]

I didn't want to spam that PSXERIAL USB cable thread, so replying here.

no problem. I did write a guide on here. If you struggle following it let me know I will help you build one then edit the guide.

The hardest part of the whole build is just working out which pin in the connector belongs to which colour wire in the cable assembly. I was quite lucky, I managed to buy a lot of the cables in bulk from the same supplier - although my supplies are nearly out.

I have a PS1 link cable already... and crazy enough to cut it in halve to try it out
I'd use it more if it was a yaroze USB coms cable for sure!

It's a nice tut! thanks!
I'll try it out and let you know

@ 3.3v FTDI Module (This MUST be a genuine FTDI232 module – if its a module with a counterfeit FTDI chip on it, it WILL NOT WORK!) It also must have ALL handshaking lines present (RTS/CTS/DSR/DTR)

Just one question... how would you find a "Genuine" FTDI232?

I found 2 which looks legit I guess, both referring to FTDI:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-MWC ... ctupt=true
And
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FT232RL-FTD ... ctupt=true

Recommend any of these?

[danhans42]

Basically, avoid eBay and anything that is cheap.

Amazon have a few - see attached picture (depends on your location, not sure about Australia) - this model says that it is genuine. To check if you have a genuine, try changing some of the values in FTprog, you will find that the changes are always lost on a power cycle or just do not change when you re-write the settings.

Only other place i can recommend is you try an electronic distributor - Farnell(Element14), DigiKey or RS.. that kind of this. They can be expensive though, as they only generally stock the design that is made by FTDI.

I keep meaning to check how feasable this is on other USB UARTS. The CP210x series that I use for my cables cannot talk to a Yaroze without some extra logic to invert the signals and the Prolific chips arent great on some OS's.

ftdi_amazojn.png

If its genuine, just make sure it has all the required handshaking pins broken out or you would need to solder wires straight to the FTDI IC, which might be a bit tricky.

[gwald]

Basically, avoid eBay and anything that is cheap.

Amazon have a few - see attached picture (depends on your location, not sure about Australia) - this model says that it is genuine. To check if you have a genuine, try changing some of the values in FTprog, you will find that the changes are always lost on a power cycle or just do not change when you re-write the settings.

Only other place i can recommend is you try an electronic distributor - Farnell(Element14), DigiKey or RS.. that kind of this. They can be expensive though, as they only generally stock the design that is made by FTDI.

I keep meaning to check how feasable this is on other USB UARTS. The CP210x series that I use for my cables cannot talk to a Yaroze without some extra logic to invert the signals and the Prolific chips arent great on some OS's.

ftdi_amazojn.png

If its genuine, just make sure it has all the required handshaking pins broken out or you would need to solder wires straight to the FTDI IC, which might be a bit tricky.

Thanks for the tip!
I found a few places in Australia, no problems.

I found the one in your pic on Amazon.com.au $44AUD wow!

The adafruit are nearly half that!

Adafruit is a good brand, but would you use their FTDI chips?

► Show Spoiler

Hackaday and EEVblog are reporting that the latest Windows update that include FTDI drivers brick any counterfeit FTDI chips. Adafruit requires it suppliers to only use genuine FTDI chips. However, no matter what it’s always possible counterfeit chips could be used when you purchase products from anyone, anywhere. We’re double and triple checking all our products and suppliers as an added precaution. Update (10/24/14 8am ET) – FTDI has issued a statement and is updating the drivers.

The following Adafruit products use genuine FTDI chips, either we purchase them or they are manufactured to our specifications with the requirement of genuine FTDI chips.

Probably only one way to find out
If you think it's worth while, I'll get one as a tester and let you know.

Thanks again for the help this is pretty cool

[gwald]

Basically, avoid eBay and anything that is cheap.

Amazon have a few - see attached picture (depends on your location, not sure about Australia) - this model says that it is genuine. To check if you have a genuine, try changing some of the values in FTprog, you will find that the changes are always lost on a power cycle or just do not change when you re-write the settings.

Only other place i can recommend is you try an electronic distributor - Farnell(Element14), DigiKey or RS.. that kind of this. They can be expensive though, as they only generally stock the design that is made by FTDI.

I keep meaning to check how feasable this is on other USB UARTS. The CP210x series that I use for my cables cannot talk to a Yaroze without some extra logic to invert the signals and the Prolific chips arent great on some OS's.

ftdi_amazojn.png

If its genuine, just make sure it has all the required handshaking pins broken out or you would need to solder wires straight to the FTDI IC, which might be a bit tricky.

Thanks for the tip!
I found a few places in Australia, no problems.

I found the one in your pic on Amazon.com.au $44AUD wow!

The adafruit are nearly half that!

Adafruit is a good brand, but would you use their FTDI chips?

► Show Spoiler

Hackaday and EEVblog are reporting that the latest Windows update that include FTDI drivers brick any counterfeit FTDI chips. Adafruit requires it suppliers to only use genuine FTDI chips. However, no matter what it’s always possible counterfeit chips could be used when you purchase products from anyone, anywhere. We’re double and triple checking all our products and suppliers as an added precaution. Update (10/24/14 8am ET) – FTDI has issued a statement and is updating the drivers.

The following Adafruit products use genuine FTDI chips, either we purchase them or they are manufactured to our specifications with the requirement of genuine FTDI chips.

more info on FTDI adafruit



Probably only one way to find out
If you think it's worth while, I'll get one as a tester and let you know.

Thanks again for the help this is pretty cool

[gwald]

Basically, avoid eBay and anything that is cheap.

Amazon have a few - see attached picture (depends on your location, not sure about Australia) - this model says that it is genuine. To check if you have a genuine, try changing some of the values in FTprog, you will find that the changes are always lost on a power cycle or just do not change when you re-write the settings.

Only other place i can recommend is you try an electronic distributor - Farnell(Element14), DigiKey or RS.. that kind of this. They can be expensive though, as they only generally stock the design that is made by FTDI.

I keep meaning to check how feasable this is on other USB UARTS. The CP210x series that I use for my cables cannot talk to a Yaroze without some extra logic to invert the signals and the Prolific chips arent great on some OS's.

ftdi_amazojn.png

If its genuine, just make sure it has all the required handshaking pins broken out or you would need to solder wires straight to the FTDI IC, which might be a bit tricky.

Thanks for the tip!
I found a few places in Australia, no problems.

I found the one in your pic on Amazon.com.au $44AUD wow!

The adafruit are nearly half that!

Adafruit is a good brand, but would you use their FTDI chips?

► Show Spoiler

Hackaday and EEVblog are reporting that the latest Windows update that include FTDI drivers brick any counterfeit FTDI chips. Adafruit requires it suppliers to only use genuine FTDI chips. However, no matter what it’s always possible counterfeit chips could be used when you purchase products from anyone, anywhere. We’re double and triple checking all our products and suppliers as an added precaution. Update (10/24/14 8am ET) – FTDI has issued a statement and is updating the drivers.

The following Adafruit products use genuine FTDI chips, either we purchase them or they are manufactured to our specifications with the requirement of genuine FTDI chips.

more info on FTDI adafruit



Probably only one way to find out
If you think it's worth while, I'll get one as a tester and let you know.

Thanks again for the help this is pretty cool

[danhans42]

Adafruit should be genuine, but that is missing DTR/DSR signals broken out to pins so wouldnt work - unless you dont mind soldering directly to the pins on the IC itself which I wouldn't recommend.

With that pin layout they are mainly designed for programming Arduino Pro Micro and that kind of thing I think. If you look at the guide at the top it shows the signals that are used - just make sure the one you choose has all those signals broken out and you should be fine.

[gwald]

Thanks for that, I missed that!
Cool, well I'll keep looking.

[gwald]

Adafruit should be genuine, but that is missing DTR/DSR signals broken out to pins so wouldnt work - unless you dont mind soldering directly to the pins on the IC itself which I wouldn't recommend.

With that pin layout they are mainly designed for programming Arduino Pro Micro and that kind of thing I think. If you look at the guide at the top it shows the signals that are used - just make sure the one you choose has all those signals broken out and you should be fine.

How about this bad boy?
SparkFun USB to Serial Breakout - FT232RL

[danhans42]

That will do the job perfectly . It has all the pins needed broken out and more, and seems very cheap too.

Also, it mentions the eeprom which is the bit the fakes don't copy.. which we need for the above.

[gwald]

sweet!
Ordered one, and I'll have a play with it next weekend
Again, thanks for the help!

[gwald]

That will do the job perfectly . It has all the pins needed broken out and more, and seems very cheap too.

Also, it mentions the eeprom which is the bit the fakes don't copy.. which we need for the above.

I"m still looking for my cable and don't have the SparkFun FTDI board yet.
But just thought I would start figuring out cables to soldier points, how does this look to you?
PSX cable................SparkFun FTDI
1 – brown RTS.....-> CTS
2 – pink GND........-> GND
3 – green DTR......-> DSR
4 – black CTS.......-> RTS
5 – yellow TXD......-> RXD
6 – red DSR..........-> DTR
7 – NA
8 – orange RXD....-> TXD

The cable/port is upside down, I'll probably wire it up like this, it should be easy to read.

yarComs2.png

Extra info on this board:

SparkFun USB to Serial Breakout-FT232RL.png

[danhans42]

Looks perfect from the signal point of view (RTS-CTS etc)

Just don't worry about the internal wiring colours, as they differ from cable to cable.

[gwald]

Amazing how small it is!






I checked on the debian/ubuntu repos and there's: ftdi-eeprom, Tool for reading/erasing/flashing FTDI USB chip EEPROMs, but I followed your linux instructions and it work pretty easy!


And to confirm



Next is wiring it up!
Thanks again danhans42

[danhans42]

No problem at all, nice to see someone following my guide and getting stuck in.

I really like the look of that sparkfun module, may pick one up and update the guide a bit seen as it's a certified genuine FTDI part

[gwald]

Stupid question, but reverting the inverting (ie not applying the invert), would it then be compatible with PSXSERIAL?

[mrhaboobi]

Make sure you post more pictures of your work

[danhans42]

You are only inverting the handshaking lines, which psxserial doesn't use so it works with both.

[gwald]

Hi again

So this is how I figured out my wiring.
First, I cut the cable in two equal pieces, I didn't bother testing them before cutting, too much hassle and the test below is plenty proof they work!

Next figure out which end is 1 and which is 8, ie from http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=66
The Parallel port (left) side is 1, the AV plug (right) is 8:

My meter is low on battery, but it's set to beep on connection.
I wrapped a wire around the red test pole and used a clip to hold it down while I find the pin in the plug.
It's dodgy but worked.


In the image above, the plug is upside down but the pins are still the same, 1 is on the left and 8 is on the right.
I tested the pins this way, it's easier.

Make sure to tap only a single pin wire in the plug when finding the connection.
I tested all lines in the plug while counting, I did all pins just in case of a short, you should only hear the beep on a single line.

Remember one line (pin 7) isn't connected, mine is red, it was the first one I tested and freaked out

I twisted up the tested wires out of the way.

I mapped out the two ends, the first end I called sticker/OLD, because it had a cash converter sticker on it and the other I called new.


Next, to confirm it's correct, using danhans42's table of the connections.
Using the left side I wrote the function, ie first cable on the left, RTS and followed the colour (green) to the right, and wrote CTS.
I did that for all 8 lines and it looks like this:


DONT MATCH NUMBERS!

Make sure you post more pictures of your work

I posted a few more images on twitter, my image host here.

Tomorrow I should be soldering it up
Dan, feel free to use any of the above.

You are only inverting the handshaking lines, which psxserial doesn't use so it works with both.

Awesome! double the pleasure