Hi,
while installing the DFO one ceramic cap must have been damaged even though I barely touched it with the soldering iron at 270C, Must have been cracked already.
Anyone knows what value it is? There is no indication onboard like a cap number. This cap bridges the 3.3V line to ground and there seem to be more caps bridging the power and ground (like in parallel to each other).
The console seems to be working fine but I need to replace it (OCD).
If anyone had a donor pu-18 of the 1-664-537-72 board and could remove it and measure this cap, I would be forever greatful.
The instructions for installing the DFO were to connect te power and ground wires at the two ends of this cap, this is what caused the fault.
Finally I made solder points myself by scratching the green surface to uncover the copper and solder the wires there (much safer), but I need to replace this broken ceramic capacitor. Please if someone could help out...
SCPH-5502 ceramic capacitor question
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TheShadowRunner Verified
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http://psxdev.ru/files/manuals/SCPH-550 ... 2_5503.pdf
Not the best quality but maybe can help.
Not the best quality but maybe can help.
Really !!!!! Have you measured the cap at this spot after removing it? If you did THANK YOU !!!!
So, did you actually measure it? How did you come up with this value?
Actually this cap and all the components on the back side of the board are all unmarked.... So this service manual doesn't indicate the value I'm looking for.TheShadowRunner wrote: ↑November 29th, 2021, 5:09 am http://psxdev.ru/files/manuals/SCPH-550 ... 2_5503.pdf
Not the best quality but maybe can help.
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Shadow Verified
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That capacitor isn't crucial to the operation of the system. It'll work without it fine since it's just a decoupling capacitor. It's either 1uF or 10uF. The service manual will say.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
You must mean 1nF or 10nF (not uF).
Yes you are absolutely right, I just want my board to be "right" and have all the right components at their right places.
Unfortunately I can't find a service manual for the pu-18 board, I searched a lot but can't find it online, and for the ones you can find (other pcb models) there are no information for the decoupling caps in them.
Anyway, since I don't have same board to remove the cap and measure it, I replaced the broken cap with a 10nF as the guy above said that is the right one, he must have registered the forum just to write that as he only has 1 post. The one next to it is 1nF so this one has to be 10nF.
I removed and measured some decoupling caps from a scrap board of another version and they are 1nF, 10nF or 100nF.
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