Generic Power Supply
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Squaresoft74 Verified
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Generic Power Supply
Hello,
Has anyone ever used one of these PSU clone ?
.
They were made by "Madcow" and PCB is dated "Jun:03.1999".
They can fit into any FAT PS1 since they have both 7 and 5 pins connectors available, which is nice.
But are they at least safe to use at all ?
Has anyone ever used one of these PSU clone ?
.
They were made by "Madcow" and PCB is dated "Jun:03.1999".
They can fit into any FAT PS1 since they have both 7 and 5 pins connectors available, which is nice.
But are they at least safe to use at all ?
Last edited by Squaresoft74 on September 8th, 2018, 1:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Shadow Verified
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Nope, never tried it, but it looks well designed and it looks like it should be safe.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
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Squaresoft74 Verified
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Looks good then.
Only flaw i can see right now is the 220-110v connector that only holds with the 2 solder points.
I'll replace it with an original connector since it also holds with 2 screws.
I'll test it for a while and see if that doesn't warm up too much.
Only flaw i can see right now is the 220-110v connector that only holds with the 2 solder points.
I'll replace it with an original connector since it also holds with 2 screws.
I'll test it for a while and see if that doesn't warm up too much.
Hm, I've got to disagree on the looks of this supply. To me, it looks like a cost reduced clone of the original.
I can't say much about the primary side, but look at the secondary!
Where is the reset controller IC and all the filtering passives?
The capacitors look small, and all I can read on one of them is "vent" :p
These probably work, but they're not quality.
I can't say much about the primary side, but look at the secondary!
Where is the reset controller IC and all the filtering passives?
The capacitors look small, and all I can read on one of them is "vent" :p
These probably work, but they're not quality.
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Squaresoft74 Verified
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Would it be safer to mod an original one like this ?
Since this involves mains power, I really don't want to recommend it.
Originals are okay within their specifications.
You probably want to power an early machine, and those use a bit more juice.
It will certainly work, but maybe a component will be stressed more than it should be (unlikely, but still).
Originals are okay within their specifications.
You probably want to power an early machine, and those use a bit more juice.
It will certainly work, but maybe a component will be stressed more than it should be (unlikely, but still).
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Squaresoft74 Verified
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So in the end, what would be the best solution to replace a Scph-100X's power supply with one that doesn't warm up as much as their original one ?
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Shadow Verified
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Compared to wall adaptors you get these days from China, I thought it was pretty decent. Still, it's not going to be nearly as reliable as the genuine Sony ones.rama3 wrote: ↑September 8th, 2018, 8:36 pm Hm, I've got to disagree on the looks of this supply. To me, it looks like a cost reduced clone of the original.
I can't say much about the primary side, but look at the secondary!
Where is the reset controller IC and all the filtering passives?
The capacitors look small, and all I can read on one of them is "vent" :p
These probably work, but they're not quality.
If you're skilled enough, you could tweak the existing Sony design or build your own from scratch.Squaresoft74 wrote: ↑September 9th, 2018, 3:53 am So in the end, what would be the best solution to replace a Scph-100X's power supply with one that doesn't warm up as much as their original one ?
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
Also, the 100x design was produced for quite a while. Later models use power supplies from Nichicon, with similar performance to their 700x / 900x versions. So if you can find one of those, this is the best replacement.
I suppose your second best option is indeed a conversion of a regular 700x / 900x to 7 pin.
Keep the mains power in mind!
I suppose your second best option is indeed a conversion of a regular 700x / 900x to 7 pin.
Keep the mains power in mind!
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Squaresoft74 Verified
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Yep, that's one.
You can see how they're better by the heat marks around the input switcher (ie: none on the Nichicon ;p).
You can see how they're better by the heat marks around the input switcher (ie: none on the Nichicon ;p).
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