[Hardware Mod] NTSC/PAL reference oscillator mod for PU-18
Well, can you not modify any other $5 console instead?
It'd be a shame to do this to a debug station.
Anyway, the essential part is swapping the 53.2 oscillator for a 53.69 one.
It'd be a shame to do this to a debug station.
Anyway, the essential part is swapping the 53.2 oscillator for a 53.69 one.
nothing else needs to be changed? just swap the one chip?Anyway, the essential part is swapping the 53.2 oscillator for a 53.69 one.
Everything you need has been talked about in this thread already 

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The debug station isn't anything special. The only special parts on it is the blue plastic shell it comes in. The HC05 with the unlocked security can be re-created by flashing a new old stock chip 

Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.
@TriMesh Thank you very much for this Tut, ive managed it to mod my PAL 1002 to NTSC/PAL and can now finally play my Japanese DDR Games at AA
im very Happy

hey there 
I have a similar tutorial on my website. How to have dual 53.2 and 53.69mhz GPU clocks for correct PAL and NTSC timings.
https://retrofreedom.com/ps1dfo.html
BY THE WAY:
On PU-22 boards and up, colour subcarrier is fixed regardless of oscillator fix. You also therefore need to mess with subcarrier if you want anything other than RGB. Otherwise you'll get PAL60 or NTSC50
EDIT:
ALSO:
Old old old PS1s with the 160-pin GPU only have 1 clock input.... 53.2 or 53.69 but not both. You could wire up a little switch to a 4066 (GND/3.3v switch) and switch out the oscillators accordingly (DFO auto-switch not possible on these PS1s since no NTSC/PAL switching pin on 160-pin GPU).
The reason for 4066 rather than switching the oscillations directly, is to reduce length of wire on oscillator wires (otherwise you'll cause lots of noise on the board)

I have a similar tutorial on my website. How to have dual 53.2 and 53.69mhz GPU clocks for correct PAL and NTSC timings.
https://retrofreedom.com/ps1dfo.html
BY THE WAY:
On PU-22 boards and up, colour subcarrier is fixed regardless of oscillator fix. You also therefore need to mess with subcarrier if you want anything other than RGB. Otherwise you'll get PAL60 or NTSC50
EDIT:
ALSO:
Old old old PS1s with the 160-pin GPU only have 1 clock input.... 53.2 or 53.69 but not both. You could wire up a little switch to a 4066 (GND/3.3v switch) and switch out the oscillators accordingly (DFO auto-switch not possible on these PS1s since no NTSC/PAL switching pin on 160-pin GPU).
The reason for 4066 rather than switching the oscillations directly, is to reduce length of wire on oscillator wires (otherwise you'll cause lots of noise on the board)
I tried doing the dual factory oscillator mod to my SCPH-1002 PAL PU-8 using NTSC components from a SCPH-3500 PU-8, but I no longer get a picture after doing the mod. Toggling the power button only results in a very brief white flash on monitor, reset button doesn't do anything.
I tried adding both caps from the back of the NTSC board to the PAL board instead of only using the one on the left side to match the NTSC model, but that didn't help. Any ideas what to try next?
Edit: This is looking like a fault with something other than that oscillator mod, reverted the console back to factory PAL configuration and the same issue persists. Going to do some testing with an oscilloscope later to see what the problem is.
I tried adding both caps from the back of the NTSC board to the PAL board instead of only using the one on the left side to match the NTSC model, but that didn't help. Any ideas what to try next?
Edit: This is looking like a fault with something other than that oscillator mod, reverted the console back to factory PAL configuration and the same issue persists. Going to do some testing with an oscilloscope later to see what the problem is.
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My guess is that you accidentally shorted something and blew a fuse - they are the little black devices with reference designations starting with "PS" (Like "PS602") that are on the lower left corner of the board near the socket that connects to the power supply.
Try powering the unit up and checking for the same voltages on both sides of each fuse.
Try powering the unit up and checking for the same voltages on both sides of each fuse.
i have soldered pal oscillator to japan 5500 board as described in pdf. and cut the trace because i have 5502 bios on 5500 board. now bios is running in ntsc mode with black borders up and down. so i little confused.
can problem be solved by installing 5501 bios, resoldering gpu trace or rgb-conponent cable? do i need pal-fix with external oscillator? will mayumi4 affect to video modes?
can problem be solved by installing 5501 bios, resoldering gpu trace or rgb-conponent cable? do i need pal-fix with external oscillator? will mayumi4 affect to video modes?
Hi, i have an PU-23 pal model, is this mod doable? and above all is it necessary or Sony fixed the later models?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The original files linked by TriMesh for PU-8 are incorrect, the ferrite bead and resistor need swapping for install on a PAL unit.
The picture from Tonico is correct for resistor and ferrite bead positions.
If you look at Tonicos picture it seems that he did not need to remove the 0ohm link, the solder looks stock on those pads.
Id say he has a revision that links the outputs of both crystals somewhere else.
Checking with a multimeter on the either side of where the 0ohm link shows continuity for him I bet.
The picture from Tonico is correct for resistor and ferrite bead positions.
If you look at Tonicos picture it seems that he did not need to remove the 0ohm link, the solder looks stock on those pads.
Id say he has a revision that links the outputs of both crystals somewhere else.
Checking with a multimeter on the either side of where the 0ohm link shows continuity for him I bet.
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How do I install a DFO or add a second oscillator to my pu-7?
I have a PU-8 which just stops the signal when loading PAL games. I tried understanding what i need to fix in order for it to work, but i got confused. can someone help me? I tested both in RGB and composite, just to make sure.
hello guys, I will resurrect the topic because I need help to change my ps1 scph 1002 from PAL to NTSC the model of my card and the PU-8 would like a help because I have searched a lot on the internet and haven't found it. thanks.
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I want to put an NTSC Oscillator in my PAL late pu-8 which NTSC motherboards are compatible?
Hello. Is there a place that sells oscillators either from NTSC console or a custom for PS1? Stuck with 2 PAL systems XStation modded that won't play NTSC games. Installing PS1Digital is too expensive (and they are out of stock everywhere anyway).
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I didn't find any I just bought both a PAL and NTSC console 1002 and 1001 respectively
The large 5v crystals are available and work perfect with 3.3v (well ~3.6), the SMD ones on the PSX work fine at 5v too.
https://github.com/L10N37/PSXTAL
I have multiple versions of region free PSX
PCB, 2 physical crystals for up to PU20
SI5351 version (one clock output, programmed on the fly during console use to suit new region)
Those 2 versions are both including in game reset and all changes are made (including video region switching) with controller combos
PU22+ version is a '3FO'
Replaces clock gen circuit ENTIRELY to an auto switching one,
CPU clock
NTSC Sub-carrer
PAL Sub-carrier
NTSC GPU
PAL GPU
Wire it in, auto switch on game region detection
Also gets rid of the weird video switching at boot where it goes from PAL60/NTSC443 then back to regular PAL
https://github.com/L10N37/PSXTAL
I have multiple versions of region free PSX
PCB, 2 physical crystals for up to PU20
SI5351 version (one clock output, programmed on the fly during console use to suit new region)
Those 2 versions are both including in game reset and all changes are made (including video region switching) with controller combos
PU22+ version is a '3FO'
Replaces clock gen circuit ENTIRELY to an auto switching one,
CPU clock
NTSC Sub-carrer
PAL Sub-carrier
NTSC GPU
PAL GPU
Wire it in, auto switch on game region detection
Also gets rid of the weird video switching at boot where it goes from PAL60/NTSC443 then back to regular PAL
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Thanks this is what I neededL10N37 wrote: ↑December 13th, 2021, 12:58 pm The large 5v crystals are available and work perfect with 3.3v (well ~3.6), the SMD ones on the PSX work fine at 5v too.
https://github.com/L10N37/PSXTAL
I have multiple versions of region free PSX
PCB, 2 physical crystals for up to PU20
SI5351 version (one clock output, programmed on the fly during console use to suit new region)
Those 2 versions are both including in game reset and all changes are made (including video region switching) with controller combos
PU22+ version is a '3FO'
Replaces clock gen circuit ENTIRELY to an auto switching one,
CPU clock
NTSC Sub-carrer
PAL Sub-carrier
NTSC GPU
PAL GPU
Wire it in, auto switch on game region detection
Also gets rid of the weird video switching at boot where it goes from PAL60/NTSC443 then back to regular PAL
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Hi everyone! I just wanna make sure if PU-18 DFO/Color mod from the very 1st page is correct? I'd like to mod my 5502 pal unit so I want to double check: parts that are assembled on a dot board are dis-soldered from a PAL motherboard NOT NTSC one, correct? All that I'll need to remove from NTSC board is just an oscillator? Thx in advance.
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