PlayStation Development Network

lupod wrote:When I use the Arduino for debugging, it is powered from USB. Even when not connected to USB, the makers of the Arduino board say "Supplying voltage via the 5V or 3.3V pins bypasses the regulator, and can damage your board. We don't advise it." (https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3)
So when I followed the instructions (with just a little experience with the arduino), I just connected it to USB, and hooked up the signals from the PSX (which was obviously a bad idea because then it's 5V). When connecting 3.3 to IOREF, the Arduino is still powered from USB, but works with a logic level of 3.3V.

Yes, they generally recommend using the regulators to protect their boards from uncontrolled voltages sources or power spikes.
However, in our application (board installed in PSX), we have a controlled power source and additionally we know that we need it to be ~3.3V to get the signal levels right. In this case, using the 3.3V pin is exactly the right thing to do.
I don't know how the IOREF pin is supposed to be used but I really recommend not using it for power.

Oh, here's some info for your 5502. It might work!
https://assemblergames.com/threads/ps1- ... ost-945098

rama3 wrote:I don't know how the IOREF pin is supposed to be used but I really recommend not using it for power.

You are right, I misunderstood the docs about IOREF. I thought it's a reference signal that sets the logic level of the Arduino but it is the other way around and tells external hardware what the Arduino's logic level is. I probably raised the logic level of the whole PSX board by connecting its VCC to IOREF. Gladly it survived (until now).
I have now flashed another ATmega328 and assembled everything. It works (at 3.3V ) and is set up at my tv =)

However, out of curiosity (I am a bit confused right now), if the original Arduino Uno, without level switch, is connected to USB, how can it be made operating at 3.3V without a level shifter? If you additionally connect PSX' Vcc to the Arduino's 3.3V, does it override the USB's 5V and runs the whole thing at 3.3V? I am sure I am missing something.

rama3 wrote: Oh, here's some info for your 5502. It might work!
https://assemblergames.com/threads/ps1- ... ost-945098

That is very kind, thank you The disc spins and does not go to 2x, but I still believe the issue with my 5502 is another one because the laser does not move up or down anymore. It does not even read audio discs. I tried another drive from a 7002 but it behaves the same (I am not sure if you can swap the drives if they actually fit physically). The disc spins for two seconds, horizontal movement works, but the laser does not try to focus. And it was properly setup for injecting the symbols when it died so the solution you suggested in that thread did not work =\

Oh well, the 5502 probably has some defect then. Quite possibly it's the HC-05 CD controller chip. I think the drive will do some initial startup routine independently. But with the brains fried, it then idles forever :p
But I can verify that another drive from a different machine would normally work. The drives are all electrically compatible.

However, out of curiosity (I am a bit confused right now), if the original Arduino Uno, without level switch, is connected to USB, how can it be made operating at 3.3V without a level shifter? If you additionally connect PSX' Vcc to the Arduino's 3.3V, does it override the USB's 5V and runs the whole thing at 3.3V? I am sure I am missing something.

You're right. When you connect the Uno to USB, you connect it to a 5V supply. Because 5V to ground is the bigger potential, connecting an additional 3.3V to it will not work. What happens is that the Arduino will try to force the 3.3V device to its 5V level. Something will soon give in and go up in smoke.

So yeah, if your Arduino doesn't have a second 3.3V regulator installed, or you don't use a level shifter, you cannot use it with your PSX + USB connection. You can however install it in the PSX and connect it to the PSX 3.3V via the Vcc / 3.3V pin. Despite being nominally a 5V device, it will work just fine.

Side note:
There is a nice workaround to still get debug output: An additional serial to USB bridge.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-USB ... 3088745709
The IC always uses 5V on the USB side and lets you set the serial level (3.3V or 5.0V. Some even offer 1.8V) via a jumper.
These things are very useful.

rama3 wrote:There is a nice workaround to still get debug output: An additional serial to USB bridge.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-USB ... 3088745709
The IC always uses 5V on the USB side and lets you set the serial level (3.3V or 5.0V. Some even offer 1.8V) via a jumper.
These things are very useful.

I'll definitely get one of those, thanks!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CJMCU-C ... 86095.html

I installed this one yesterday succesfully. it has a DTR pin, and I plan on getting the DSR out aswell... but for those resend Serial sending applications, you only need RX and TX (and ground). 88 cents and microusb, seemed like a great look on my PSOne

I pushed the new patch on github, with the version number 7.01.

rama3 wrote:Very interresting!
I guess I'll have to sacrifice a board for testing now.
Pull off the entire IC and replace it with PsNee driving the bits.

(This was about removing the wobble processor entirely, instead of attaching a gate wire to it and overriding its output.)
It works just fine!
The processor can be removed and the console will still work, once a modchip injects the unlocking symbols.
So yeah, the only thing this IC does is processing the tracking error signal into logic level signals for the HC-05.
With a modchip, it's entirely useless.
Bonus info: HC-05 pin 17 is dragged high by default. So the modchip code can stay the same as normal and doesn't have to drive a high bit.

pre10c wrote:Yeah it isnt working for ntsc disks, pal games run just fine. The scart to rgb is the one with the red green and blue at one end yeah? Or the one with red white yellow?

Thanks in advance

With a SCART cable, it's hard to tell just by looking at it. Just check if the description says "RGB". A cable with red/white/yellow plugs is composite only - one with red/green/blue may be either RGB or component (probably the latter, since the PS2 supported component video and the multi-AV plug is the same).

pre10c wrote:Would these work?

Gratis Verzending 20 stks/partij crystal/4.43 M/4.433619 MHZ/HC-49 S/passieve kristal
http://s.aliexpress.com/mEviQ7Rf
(from AliExpress Android)

Also is there any tutorial where to place these?

No, that's just an xtal rather than an oscillator. The oscillator is a little module with 4 pins that you just connect power to and it generates the signal. I just had a look, and the oscillator modules seem hard to find now...

Not to interrupt the discussion, but I wanted to say thank you to everyone working on this.

I had previously been running a modified version of PSNee v6, with a few tweaks to make it work on my NTSC PSOne. It didn't work very well... getting a disc to load usually took 5+ attempts. Your new version has worked 100% so far.

The chip used was an ATtiny85. It works fine (with tweaked oscillator calibration), so the documentation could be updated to say it has been tested.

Glad you enjoy it
I expected the 25 and 85 to work. They're essentially the same chip as my 45, just with different memory sizes.

I wonder though, did you have to tune the oscillator for PsNee to work?

I'm not sure if it needed the calibration or not. My ATtiny was running around 8.2 mhz at room temp without calibration. It seemed like more of an issue with the long delays used in PsNee v6.

It probably would have worked without calibration.
The main limitation is the 'jitter' tolerance of the HC-05 license symbol reader routine, and it is very forgiving.
The rest of the code is just watching the current read head position and decides if it has to inject or not.
Reliability by design. I'm really glad it worked out like that

I mostly lurk (sorry!) but I was wondering if someone had a wiring diagram for PU-20 US/NTSC board? I've probed and figured out where the gate/data signals are, but I'm not sure where to start to find the SUBQ/SQCK signals required for the arduino sketch.

Angelworks wrote:I mostly lurk (sorry!) but I was wondering if someone had a wiring diagram for PU-20 US/NTSC board? I've probed and figured out where the gate/data signals are, but I'm not sure where to start to find the SUBQ/SQCK signals required for the arduino sketch.

As you probably worked out, the GATE/DATA pins are the same as the PU-18. Best place to pick off the subcode signals are the test points that are just next to the mechacon CPU:

Ah perfect - I'll go over this tomorrow after work and assuming I figure it out I'll photo the results for the collection.

LiGhTMaGiCk wrote:

battle100 wrote:

rama3 wrote:Here you go. You can use the 3.5V and ground connection from the PU-8 install pic.

Perfect as always, rama3!

Picked up an old unit; I think the CD drive is near-enough shot, but I can always replace that at some point will let you know how it goes!

That's funny, I had a PU-8 SCPH-1001 laying around and decided to mod it like this only to find out after I was done that the CD drive was kaput. Gonna get another drive at some point if I can find them at a reasonable price.

WooHoo!!! Finally got around to getting a replacement drive, slapped it in the unit and it works perfectly modchip and all.

Thanks very much for your hard work and advice.

Glad you like it

Hey guys!
So i have a PAL fatty (scph-5552, PU-18), and i wanted to install an uno with psnee in it.
So i flashed the code from github(removed the // on the arduino_board define), i soldered the connections with my poor soldering skills, and tried to boot a game.
So the issue, is that, even with original discs, the ps starts, and the disc spins twice. And then it stops. if i recall correctly, it does that when there is no disc, right? The green LED on the uno lights up, so it does get power.
I probably messed up a solder point, since i dont have much experience. I didnt bridge any pads or anything. Something is not making good contact(i guess). Any idea on what point might be the issue?
I used 30awg kynar wire.
Thanks!

Please post some detailed pictures of your install.