Duplicating the offical 12v DC Power supply?

[Techdisk]

TL;DR, I'm asking if anyone here has a blue 12v debug unit that they can take apart for some detail pictures of the DC PSU and how it works. For science. (or maybe just for better audio quality, whichever.)

Long version:
So, I've been looking into modding my SCPH-1001 into a CD player using this fine person's project: http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=112

As we all know, the PS1 was never made to be a hi-fi CD player, and the AC power supply in the 1001 is very noisy (as in, you can hear the 60Hz hum from the wall in any good quality speakers you connect). However, after looking around online, I remembered that the rarer version of the blue "debug" PS1 units actually uses an official 12 V DC power supply in the case, with an external AC-->DC adapter. Since, from what I've seen, the blue debugs are based directly off of the 1001 with the direct audio/video jacks, I also assume that they have the same 7 pin internal power connector. If I could get my hands on a PS1 DC power supply, all I have to do to kill the powerline noise in the audio jacks is to buy myself a high quality 12V external adapter and hook it up.

Now, I don't plan to go out and get a rare debug unit only to gut it for a power supply that would end up in a retail unit, so I'm wondering if it's possible to simply duplicate the official 12v supply using a schematic or even just from a good set of pictures. Of course, I've googled many pages of pictures of the retail supply and even some schematics, but I haven't found a single picture of a 12v debug power supply board, let alone a schematic.

So, does anyone here have a blue 12v debug unit that they can take apart for some detail pictures of the PSU and how it works? It would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

[Shadow]

You could try to use an isolation transformer to filter out the AC noise.
Another idea is to use much larger filter capacitors to filter the AC ripple.
Otherwise, you could design and build your own PSU. The 1001 just needs 12V, 5V and 3.3V if I remember correctly.
Apart from those suggestions, I don't own one so I can't help you I'm afraid

[Myria]

I own a DTL-H1101 and could do this, but I don't know what level of detail you need. I'm not really capable of much more than using a multimeter, iPhone camera and flatbed scanner.

[samspin]

I have a DTL-H1102 and can also do this if you like. I can also confirm that it also uses an internal 7-pin socket with the same schematic. I use this to my advantage by temporarily swapping it into SCPH-1002's when callibrating the lasers- it's far safer than having dangerous voltages near my hand with the unit open!
The external PSU I have is labled "za12001gn" and is rated 100V- 240V so it will work anywhere in the world, but it appears to be quite rare. There is a version of this PSU with the same label available on eBay but it only has a US-style two-prong plug as opposed to a universal-style flying-lead socket, so you'd have to attach a converter to use it in your country if not the US, but it can still accept 100V-240V.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Global-NEW-AC-A ... 1c36d4964f
As for the internal input board, it *should* be identical to a DTL-H1101. The only difference between an DTL-H1101 and H1102 *should* be the internal oscillator on the mainboard for PAL or NTSC video output.
Alternatively, you could butcher up a later model SCPH-500x onwards. The internal PSU's in these are known to generate less noise, but you'd have to cut the wires to fit 5 pin to 7 pin. The SCPH-100x models have a constant standby voltage supplied to the board that is uneeded, and Sony removed this in later versions. I have done this mod myself when I accidentally blew up a 120V PSU in an SCPH-1001! There is a Youtube video demonstrating this here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7qUGLIt2FY
With schematics for the 7pin-5pin conversion here:
https://mega.co.nz/#!CVZh1CSK!xyR02jVwR ... 3shJBRbptI
It is in french but you should get the idea. It's not as good as having the voltage conversion done completely externally but it could be a stop-gap solution to get some improvement in the meantime. If you're still interested, here's some photos:
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... socket.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... intPSU.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... SUback.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... loseup.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... oomout.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... center.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... Ufront.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... eview1.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... eview2.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... eview3.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... SUtop1.JPG
http://gargoyle.acns.pns.edu/psxdev/deb ... pfront.JPG

I've tried to take the photos at different angles to assist, if you need any more let me know.
Sam

[Techdisk]

Thanks for the pictures! Sorry for the extremly late response, got caught up in school and things.

Could you maybe take a picture of the two chips that have the big metal heatsinks on them? I'm trying to see actual chip numbers. Actually, any three legged chips would be helpful to have a picture of. Those are the voltage regulators that actually convert 12v to whatever the PS1 needs, and those are what would be needed to duplicate.

What's the mA rating on the back of the external PSU? I'm probably not gonna get an official one, I'm just going to use a generic adapter plug for the PS1 input side so I can just buy any old 12v adapter and use that, but I'll need some power rating to go by.

[smf]

The external PSU I have is labled "za12001gn" and is rated 100V- 240V so it will work anywhere in the world, but it appears to be quite rare.

They are relatively rare, but not extremely rare. I have some spare ones that have a figure 8 connector if anyone wants to buy one. I am not sure I'd go to the hassle of using one in this case because getting the sockets can be a pain.

I'd be more likely to use a 5.25" molex connector and run it from a pc power supply, but I've had something like http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/cat ... cts_id=866 with the optional cables for over 20 years.