My SCPH-1001 should be coming soonCan i use the PS1 slimlens

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My SCPH-1001 should be coming soonCan i use the PS1 slimlens

Post by StevieGoodwin » May 2nd, 2017, 9:25 am

I'm about to get an SCPH-1001. I tried the KSM-440-AEM laser and it was unreliable with the scratched copy of Spin Jam. I put the laser back in the SCPH-7501 and tried Spin Jam and it works like a charm. So is it possible to put in the KSM-440-BAM laser in an SCPH-1001 without having to need to adjust BIAS and GAIN?

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Post by rama3 » May 3rd, 2017, 12:02 am

It's possible and likely that the BAM assembly will just work. Proper adjustment would be best though.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 3rd, 2017, 7:11 am

rama3 wrote:It's possible and likely that the BAM assembly will just work. Proper adjustment would be best though.
What kind of adjustment as i'm not good with it.

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Post by rama3 » May 3rd, 2017, 7:27 am

You need measurement equipment. At least a multimeter to align focus bias to VC, better an oscilloscope to align to the clearest RF signal. See this site for some explanation and a guide. But beware of the power supply, it is lethal!
https://translate.googleusercontent.com ... tnqjIg#p7b

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 3rd, 2017, 7:36 am

I just read it and i do not know how to use a mulitmeter. So in these pictures, Green means good
push_pull_1.jpg
focus_bias_2.jpg
. Is it possible to adjust BIAS and Gain without measurement equipment and mulitmeter? Because i have less skills. So would replacing the laser just be good enough? Also i seen people replace lasers on their 100x models without needing to adjust BIAS and GAIN.
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Post by rama3 » May 3rd, 2017, 7:56 am

Okay, without tools and skills you can only make it worse.
So just try the new laser assembly. Chances are, it will work.
Do not try to adjust anything if it doesn't work though. Consider sending your console to someone ;)

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 3rd, 2017, 8:07 am

rama3 wrote:Okay, without tools and skills you can only make it worse.
So just try the new laser assembly. Chances are, it will work.
Do not try to adjust anything if it doesn't work though. Consider sending your console to someone ;)
Sorry RAMA3, I'm just a beginner for an SCPH-1001. You were right, The last 2 1001's i had adjusting the BIAS and GAIN without the tools did make it worse. So basically, If i get the new 1001, and put the new laser in straight away, I won't touch it. And don't forget, I did swap tops of leneses. Also on the last 2 1001's, When i had a slightly scracthed copy of Spin Jam and when i had an KSM-440-AEM laser installed, The game would say "Get ready" and be stuck on loading. So basically, if i try the BAM lens, will it read the broken copy of Spin Jam fine?

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Post by rama3 » May 3rd, 2017, 8:10 am

Sorry, my crystal ball is hazy ;p

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 3rd, 2017, 10:41 am

rama3 wrote:Sorry, my crystal ball is hazy ;p
I'm just a beginner for an SCPH-1001. You were right, The last 2 1001's i had adjusting the BIAS and GAIN without the tools did make it worse. So basically, If i get the new 1001, and put the new laser in straight away, I won't touch it. And don't forget, I did swap tops of leneses. Also on the last 2 1001's, When i had a slightly scracthed copy of Spin Jam and when i had an KSM-440-AEM laser installed, The game would say "Get ready" and be stuck on loading. So basically, if i try the BAM lens, will it read the broken copy of Spin Jam fine?

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Post by Shadow » May 3rd, 2017, 10:56 am

Really you should calibrate it using the eye test pattern on an analog scope... That will get it going.
Oh, during the calibration, the laser also requires a slightly higher amount of power for CD-R's, but it's not much.

Image
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 3rd, 2017, 2:26 pm

Matt wrote:Really you should calibrate it using the eye test pattern on an analog scope... That will get it going.
Oh, during the calibration, the laser also requires a slightly higher amount of power for CD-R's, but it's not much.
But i don't wanna calibrate it. I'm afriad it'll make things worse as i do not know how to use a mulitmeter. And i'm a beginner on the SCPH-1001.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 20th, 2017, 9:58 am

UPDATE: I don't have the SCPH-1001 anymore. I have no luck with that piece of shit model. Many people say its the best model, but it's not!!! I tried the KSM-440BAM laser when my SCPH-1001 arrived and nothing happened. So i'm getting an SCPH-5501 since they have the same BIOS. But is this true that they have Automatic BIAS and GAIN just like the SCPH-7501 and newer. But this is so bullshit!! Why couldn't the fucking SCPH-1001 have an AUTOMATIC BIAS AND GAIN and not have to do the stupid mulitmeter adjustments!!!!! :crying :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :twisted:

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Post by Shadow » May 20th, 2017, 5:14 pm

StevieGoodwin wrote:Why couldn't the fucking SCPH-1001 have an AUTOMATIC BIAS AND GAIN and not have to do the stupid mulitmeter adjustments!!!!! :crying :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :twisted:
The PU-7's and 8's are early hardware basically directly based off of the H2000 development boards which also utilised the same setup. Sony engineers only later spent the time and added such previsions once they saw that the console gained in popularity to assist repairmen in what was once a difficult task in the tuning field.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 21st, 2017, 7:10 am

UPDATE: I don't have the SCPH-1001 anymore. I have no luck with that piece of shit model. Many people say its the best model, but it's not!!! I tried the KSM-440BAM laser when my SCPH-1001 arrived and nothing happened. So i'm getting an SCPH-5501 since they have the same BIOS. But is this true that they have Automatic BIAS and GAIN just like the SCPH-7501 and newer. Also, Why would adjusting BIAS and GAIN without a mulitmeter make it worse? Because i done this on 3 1001 and it made it worse and made the FMV skip much more even with the BAM laser. I have no luck with the 1001. So basically, Put the black part of the meter on the shielding to hold it and the RED on the pots to calibrate it? I don't want to say goodbye to the PS1 as it's my favorite console and i'm still sad and throwing a fit to this day ever since April 29, 2017 and May 5, 2017. R.I.P
PS1
1995-2017
:crying :crying :crying :crying :crying :crying :crying :crying :crying :crying

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Post by rama3 » May 22nd, 2017, 12:38 am

You're callibrating wrong, that's for sure. You're supposed to set the BIAS potentiometer first.
Put your multimeter in voltage measurement mode and measure between CL708 and CL710 while the console is on but no disk is inserted. Calibrate the potentiometer until you get 0V. Too little > you'll see a negative voltage. Too much > positive voltage. You want exactly 0.00V (or as close as you can get). Now you set the GAIN to the position you can see in this picture.

Image

It will work with your BAM then.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 22nd, 2017, 6:02 am

rama3 wrote:You're callibrating wrong, that's for sure. You're supposed to set the BIAS potentiometer first.
Put your multimeter in voltage measurement mode and measure between CL708 and CL710 while the console is on but no disk is inserted. Calibrate the potentiometer until you get 0V. Too little > you'll see a negative voltage. Too much > positive voltage. You want exactly 0.00V (or as close as you can get). Now you set the GAIN to the position you can see in this picture.

Image

It will work with your BAM then.
Okay, I got a mulitmeter, Is this a good mulitmeter?:
8d698e87-e4f7-404a-ae1c-cd2bbca40a80_1.60b7569871ce325d2295bc4e3944ead7.jpeg
And people keep telling me to get a 5501. I like the 1001 because of the RCA jacks. And Okay, I get the picture. Now tell me the voltage where a disc and no disc is inserted.
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Post by rama3 » May 22nd, 2017, 10:19 am

The multimeter is fine.
You don't need to check with a disk inserted.
Just set BIAS as described and GAIN to the position shown in the picture.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 22nd, 2017, 10:25 am

rama3 wrote:The multimeter is fine.
You don't need to check with a disk inserted.
Just set BIAS as described and GAIN to the position shown in the picture.
Okay, When i set it, Can you give me the mesaurements, but i'm afriad it will make it worse.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » May 25th, 2017, 9:16 am

Oh, Does it require soldering? Because i see people soldering.

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Post by rama3 » May 25th, 2017, 9:59 am

Let me suggest you just buy a working console. This is clearly not your thing ;p

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