New cord to Playstation controller ?

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New cord to Playstation controller ?

Post by DD-Indeed » October 5th, 2014, 8:54 pm

I was wondering, that is there possibility to put new, longer cable to controller ? What I've noticed, while doing some research, is that CAT 6-type ethernet cable could be suitable to put between controller and the plug, since it has same number of wires and the ground shield. My only worry is that does it have the correct resistance and is there limit for the cable lenght ? Also, one problem would be to find flexible cable, because normal CAT is littlebit too hard and not flexible.

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Post by Shendo » October 6th, 2014, 12:11 am

I suggest you go with some other cable. I replaced one of the broken cords with CAT 5 and it is a bit too stiff.

I think 8 wire shielded alarm cable would be perfect for the job.
And replace the whole cable (not just from the ferrite bead to controller).

If you look at the front side of connector you will notice two small holes.
Put something (like a tiny screwdriver) in those holes and connector will pop right open.
That only works on older controllers though, SCPH-110 and newer don't have the holes and are bit trickier to open.
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Post by DD-Indeed » October 6th, 2014, 5:34 am

The plug itsef is tricky to open, I once have opened it with small screwdriver and it tends to take damage from the screwdriver. Maybe very careful bending and twitching with both hand would do the trick without ruining it. Or maybe, warm it up with something, hairdryer ? :P

And there's rubbery cables for sale for sure, just need to find suitable one. Soldering isn't hard task to do.

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Post by Shadow » October 6th, 2014, 3:49 pm

Use a hairdryer and use plastic tools to crack it open. Be careful to not heat it too hot or else it will deform the plastic. Ideally you need a strong, thin plastic knife. It is a real pain to open neatly, but it is possible with the right tools.
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Post by DD-Indeed » October 8th, 2014, 12:04 am

Shadow wrote:Use a hairdryer and use plastic tools to crack it open. Be careful to not heat it too hot or else it will deform the plastic. Ideally you need a strong, thin plastic knife. It is a real pain to open neatly, but it is possible with the right tools.
Indeed, heating must be done very carefully. But, what comes to my mind, is that does the plastic go harder(harder than in the original shape), after it cools down ? Because if it does, there's chance, that the plug cover will crack, when put back again.

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Post by Shadow » October 8th, 2014, 12:12 am

I'm sure it would only become slightly more brittle due to the heating of the plastic (ABS) and losses in water molecules still probably present in the ABS. I'm no expert on ABS at this stage, so a good Google search might set you up with the right intel.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

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Post by DD-Indeed » October 8th, 2014, 3:54 am

Shadow wrote:I'm sure it would only become slightly more brittle due to the heating of the plastic (ABS) and losses in water molecules still probably present in the ABS. I'm no expert on ABS at this stage, so a good Google search might set you up with the right intel.
Or just sacrifice one plug and see what happens. Theory is theory & reality is reality

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Post by Shadow » October 8th, 2014, 5:50 am

DD-Indeed wrote:
Shadow wrote:I'm sure it would only become slightly more brittle due to the heating of the plastic (ABS) and losses in water molecules still probably present in the ABS. I'm no expert on ABS at this stage, so a good Google search might set you up with the right intel.
Or just sacrifice one plug and see what happens. Theory is theory & reality is reality
I'm not sure why you just don't use a PS1/PS2 extension cable as the physical replacement instead of CAT cable :P

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Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

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Post by DD-Indeed » October 9th, 2014, 12:19 am

Shadow wrote: I'm not sure why you just don't use a PS1/PS2 extension cable as the physical replacement instead of CAT cable :P
Because it's cheaper and easier to change the cable than to have a hard time finding those extension cables, pay and/or order them, etc, etc. Besides, I have something to do and the feeling is great, when you succeed. :P

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Post by Shadow » October 9th, 2014, 3:17 pm

What about a DB-9 cable?
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

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Post by DD-Indeed » October 9th, 2014, 5:49 pm

Shadow wrote:What about a DB-9 cable?
Can be used, but the flexibility is an issue. Normally, what I've seen, those are quite heavy and rather hard.

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Post by Shadow » October 9th, 2014, 8:49 pm

I believe you're thinking of a DB-25 cable. A DB-9 is very similar to the PSX cable, yet much cheaper and flexible over CAT cable.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by DD-Indeed » October 10th, 2014, 2:39 am

Shadow wrote:I believe you're thinking of a DB-25 cable. A DB-9 is very similar to the PSX cable, yet much cheaper and flexible over CAT cable.
Time to start searching...

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