What is the best PS1 model to have?

General information to do with the PlayStation 1 Hardware. Including modchips, pinouts, rare or obscure development equipment, etc.
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What is the best model PS1?

SCPH-1001
4
29%
SCPH-5501
0
No votes
SCPH-7501
9
64%
SCPH-9001
0
No votes
SCPH-101 (PSone)
1
7%
 
Total votes: 14

StevieGoodwin
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What is the best PS1 model to have?

Post by StevieGoodwin » October 16th, 2017, 2:54 pm

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of reparing an SCPH-1001 that i have coming in the mail. It's one made August 1995 with an -11 board where it has the audio swap method and i'm planning on swapping the AAM with a superior BAM laser. Notice any differences between the PU-8-11 (Early US 1995 PU-8 with old GPU) and PU-8-21?
Because i did notice a difference. On the PU-8-11, The SCEA screen will instantly disappear as a Incomplete Startup and when was at the white Sony Logo, It instantly started going to 2x. On the PU-8-21 or newer, The SCEA is extended. Probably a change of chips from the production line? What was the differences between the -11 and the -21. The -11 PU-8 board was the one you could do the Audio Swap Method on the CD Player. Here are my Pros and Cons for the SCPH-1001 and newer:


SCPH-1001 Pros and Cons:
Pros:
Best Audio Quality
RCA Jacks

Cons:
Crappy laser which can go bad on you and melt the plastic on the rails.
FMV Skipping Issues


SCPH-7501 and newer Pros and Cons:
Pros:
Best laser,
Easy to modchip
No FMV Skipping issues

Cons:
No RCA Jacks.

Also i plan on starting a clean PS1 library collection (Means no scratches on discs and are like new condition) Do you think resurfacing discs might help? Also would a clean disc and a clean laser improve your lifespan of your PS1? With some scratches discs depending on it, I either get small skips, or skips or poor loading. In my case, I have a Tony Hawk 2 game with scratches and i get small FMV skips and small skips on Tracks. Do you think resurfacing will help? Also vote if you need to.

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Post by Shadow » October 16th, 2017, 7:30 pm

SCPH-100x with a new laser, modchip and PSIO.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » October 16th, 2017, 10:08 pm

Shadow wrote:SCPH-100x with a new laser, modchip and PSIO.
Hi Shadow, Okay, So SCPH-100x is the way to go then? I have a BAM laser though i might do that. Also do you think resurfacing discs might help? Also would a clean disc and a clean laser improve your lifespan of your PS1? With some scratches discs depending on it, I either get small skips, or skips or poor loading. In my case, I have a Tony Hawk 2 game with scratches and i get small FMV skips and small skips on Tracks since the laser was trying to refocus. Do you think resurfacing will help? Also vote if you need to.

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Post by Shadow » October 16th, 2017, 10:54 pm

Resurfacing will help, but what it comes down to is the quality of the deck itself and optics in the drive. It also needs to be calibrated. It's a real pain though since you need an analog oscilloscope to calibrate it correctly.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » October 17th, 2017, 10:03 am

Shadow wrote:Resurfacing will help, but what it comes down to is the quality of the deck itself and optics in the drive. It also needs to be calibrated. It's a real pain though since you need an analog oscilloscope to calibrate it correctly.
I'm sorry Shadow, but what is the best PS1 model to have that is not an SCPH-100x? That model made me rage quit today as i can't take it anymore and decided to smash it to pieces and i decided to go back to my SCPH-101

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Post by Shadow » October 17th, 2017, 3:55 pm

SCPH-750x.
Development Console: SCPH-5502 with 8MB RAM, MM3 Modchip, PAL 60 Colour Modification (for NTSC), PSIO Switch Board, DB-9 breakout headers for both RGB and Serial output and an Xplorer with CAETLA 0.34.

PlayStation Development PC: Windows 98 SE, Pentium 3 at 400MHz, 128MB SDRAM, DTL-H2000, DTL-H2010, DTL-H201A, DTL-S2020 (with 4GB SCSI-2 HDD), 21" Sony G420, CD-R burner, 3.25" and 5.25" Floppy Diskette Drives, ZIP 100 Diskette Drive and an IBM Model M keyboard.

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Post by Someone » October 17th, 2017, 9:59 pm

SCPH-10x has better quality CD drive but otherwise it's not great model at all. My first PS1 was SCPH-7502 and it had pretty weak CD holder-spindle, over time plastic in it just crumbled and those metallic balls which keep CD in place just fell of. It was possible to put them back but it wasn't for long until they fell again. So I then sold this console, few years passed and I decided to buy new PS1 and there was only SCPH-102 on the market at the time. Well, what can I say about it... Production quality was pretty good, CD holder was very sturdy and even much softer to put CDs in it than it was in older model, but I had very strange problem with one particular game on this model, it was Martian Gothic, for some reason this game always freezes in one exact place every time I get there, basically it is impossible to finish this game on my console. I know that this game is very badly programmed and has tons of bugs, so, probably its code is very sensitive to some specific timing which differs from the older model which I had before. And this is definitely not a CD fault because I played this game on the older model and even on PS2 and freeze never occurred on them.

So, with all that said I will tell that it's better to have few different models at once than one particular, because perfect model doesn't exist. In fact nothing is perfect in this world and you just have to deal with it, unfortunately.

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Post by StevieGoodwin » October 18th, 2017, 2:41 pm

Thank goodness for the higher votes on SCPH-7501. The reason i rage quit the SCPH-1001 because they were always skipping no matter what even with a good laser installed. In my case, I had a PU-8-11 board that had different pots from an SCPH-1000 that were not the same as the PU-8-21 to 23 and it made it skip more and decided to smash it to bits!!

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