PlayStation Development Network

Mek wrote:I tried it with the 16 MHz clock, no success. Then I tried with 5V Vcc, no success.

I don't know what it is, but something in your setup is seriously wrong.
There's no way you can't even get a normal debug print out of your chip.
The tolerances are huge.

Thanks rama3 and everyone involved. I have successfully modded my PU-23.

Originally I tried using a Digispark clone which uses an attiny85, but I didn't manage to get this to work, didn't have the tools to debug it so instead I got a Nano 3.0, which I thought would just work. After a bit of research I figured out I had to set the fuse bits for brown out detection to make it run off the playstation's 3.5v, otherwise the power led would come on, but nothing would happen.

The Nano uses a regular ATmega328, right?
I have a modified power supply in a test machine that goes down to 3.1V on the power rail.
My Arduinos worked fine at that voltage.
Maybe the brownout detection defaults to a higher voltage on a Nano board?

Edit:
I found a list of default fuse settings for various boards. It lists most Arduinos shipping with either BOD = 2.7V or BOD = 'reserved'.

Hello,
so I received my new CD drive, replaced it, and no dice.
After a few experiments, I happened to comment out the line with if (hysteresis >= 14) causing it to spam the SCEx messages over and over. And guess what - it worked
To sum up - it's a standalone Attiny85V @ 16 MHz (PLL clock) with PU-8 board.
So the modchip won't be stealth but I don't really care if it cannot work otherwise...

//edit: I saw that it cannot read audio CD anymore. So I uncommented the hysteresis if and changed it to if (scbuf[0] == 0x41)

Well, that's just unreliable :p

I can't tell from here what's causing it but the chip is reading one high bit that should already be a low (see my capture screenshot a page earlier). It's like SQCK was delayed.
Fixing this would require lots of trial and error though. Not much fun with those ATtinys.
I just hope yours is a fluke and others will be more like mine.
Idk, maybe it's just the SQCK cable :p

Hi everyone, new member here

I'm not familiar with the Sony Playstation consoles but I found a SCPH-9002 in the garbage and have been trying to salvage it and give it to some kid in my neighborhood.

As I waited for the video cable to arrive, I looked for how to play copied games like my friends would when we were teens, that's how I found this thread (thank you to all of you for sharing your knowledge for free). Since I had some Pro Minis with me, I opened the console, brushed the dust away and installed the chip to the PU-23 board.

The cable arrived, I burned Wipeout with Imgburn at the lowest speed (downloaded from here), and tried it. Unfortunately the booting sequence went straight to the Menu. I googled how to calibrate the laser, soldered a couple of leads to the trimming potentiometer and, with the help of a multiplier, adjusted the resistance in very low increments to try to get an Audio CD to be deteccted (I dont have original games). I got it to go to this screen but after a couple of test reboots the cd stop being recognized again. When I tested with the copied game, I got it to this screen but it didnt go further than this, then I rebooted and it was not recognized anymore.

Is this a problem with the laser or with my installation of the modchip? Should I try with an original game or get a replacement KSM-440AEM from ebay?

Hey Francisco,
you reached the licensed by SCEE screen at least once, so the modchip install was successful.
Your error description matches with an end of life laser diode.
Increasing the laser output improved it and shortly after, it went back to being bad.

You'll have to replace that laser, or try fixing it.
The Ebay replacements are hit and miss. They aren't actually 'new' but either old new stock or (more often) pulled from other machines and touched up.
So, you can try your luck with an Ebay replacement, or find a few more consoles and use their drives.

Good luck fixing it, it's really nice to do this for the kids

Thank you for clearing that up, great news, at least I didnt break it any further.

I searched for a replacement on Taobao, organized by number of orders and bought a replacement from the top seller. Now I need to wait and meanwhile buy a couple of remote controllers. Are the PS2 and PS3 retro-compatible with the PS1? I can't find wireless controllers for the PS1, only for PS2:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Black-Wir ... y-PS2-MAUS

hi guys, i'm a new user!
i have a PSX scph7502 with a PU-22 board, can someone explain me which pin on board connect to which pin on Arduino?
I use an Arduino Nano clone, please help me!!!

Hi again,
I published useful information about this modchip on my web page. I hope it will be of help to someone else trying to modchip with ATtiny85.

Franciscopsxdev wrote:Hi everyone, new member here

I'm not familiar with the Sony Playstation consoles but I found a SCPH-9002 in the garbage and have been trying to salvage it and give it to some kid in my neighborhood.

As I waited for the video cable to arrive, I looked for how to play copied games like my friends would when we were teens, that's how I found this thread (thank you to all of you for sharing your knowledge for free). Since I had some Pro Minis with me, I opened the console, brushed the dust away and installed the chip to the PU-23 board.

The cable arrived, I burned Wipeout with Imgburn at the lowest speed (downloaded from here), and tried it. Unfortunately the booting sequence went straight to the Menu. I googled how to calibrate the laser, soldered a couple of leads to the trimming potentiometer and, with the help of a multiplier, adjusted the resistance in very low increments to try to get an Audio CD to be deteccted (I dont have original games). I got it to go to this screen but after a couple of test reboots the cd stop being recognized again. When I tested with the copied game, I got it to this screen but it didnt go further than this, then I rebooted and it was not recognized anymore.

Is this a problem with the laser or with my installation of the modchip? Should I try with an original game or get a replacement KSM-440AEM from ebay?

The replacement arrived from China in less than 20 days, I've already installed it and the playstation is working. The cost was 1.26 euro with about 5 for shipping to Portugal.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=537 ... .N.35a81bc

I use Superbuy as buying agent and Paypal.

Thank you

I'm glad you got it sorted out

EDITED: Psnee for Arduino pro micro tested on a pu22 and pm-41 pal models.

All original work\source by psxdev.net just some pins ported for the pro micro, bios patch for the 102(pm-41) pins also ported and tested in my pal 102 with a NTSC_U backup.

I got some pin info from the psnee wiki page and the rest I just figured out, pu22 and pm-41 Diagrams included, the pm-41 diagram is just a edited version of the one found in the psnee diagram folder.

Unless you have a pro micro already the nano is cheaper and I believe the same pin layout as the original download or even use a FTDI and pro mini but none the less this may help someone.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WLpwl ... WvkeMkYJ9K

https://www.virustotal.com/#/file/6e065 ... /detection




Where would be the best place to implement the reset button to not run the code(turn off), I know its totally not needed but I like to mess with stuff, I know a "little" c++ mainly from gta5 menus and stealth servers.

I was thinking along the lines of defining a pin to the reset point found on normal mod chip diagrams and mils(), then running a



if(button_push == HIGH && button_lenght >= 2000)
{
do nothing
}
else
{
run normal code
}

just not sure how to implement it into current code.

It really isn't too hard, as long as people are willing to read and try things out. So thanks for doing just that!

I'll remember your code when the time comes and I have a Micro and a PSX that needs chipping.
I'll update the code then, adding the #defines for the Pro Micro.

Just tried a nano and it won't work for me, did I get a bad chip?

I'm using the standard port/pins as they match the uno but just get the "please insert a playstation cd-rom" message.

could it be the 3,5v ain't enough for the nano? although the pro micro I have works fine off the 3.5v, I uploaded the blink sketch to test the chip and that works fine.

Glad to finally have a use for some wonky AliExpress special Pro Minis have floating around with shot serial adapters.

I was able to sucessfully run rama3's code in my 9001 (as that one is the only one reading discs anymore), though I did have to take some slight liberties with the install.

My devices aren't exactly the most stable at sinking the 3.3v from the console, so I removed the CH340G chip altogether and replaced the 5v regulator with a 3.3v regulator, then moved the voltage input to a nearby 5v test point, so that the regulator could provide a stable 3.3v to the ATMega.

This works surprisingly well, and while my collection isn't the biggest, I did work with some of the trickier titles that check once in-game (Spyro 3 comes to mind, and the "1:1 Backup" ran without issue, which is something that my PS2s aren't exactly capable of).

Here's a photo of the install. Not my best work, but this is just something for my own enjoyment anyways, so whatever...

I think this is a nice install

I wonder what the problem was with using 3.3V directly. Are these clones leaking current when we bypass the onboard regulator?

No one has any high quality pictures of the PU-22 and where these pins are located for PSNee. So I took my own pictures your welcome to include this picture in the project zip. I got it working with a ATiny85 confirmed no editing of the code required. Thanks you guys did a great job on PSNee Ver 7.01








https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bHxI3 ... TuokierMrQ Google Drive Image Link

I appreciate your image but there are 2 problems with it so I won't recommend building like this.
Your wires are too thick. They put too much stress on the solder joints and thus can easily break them.
The chip is mounted so that it will block the case / shielding fixtures.

I recommend you redo the install with thinner wires and mount the ATtiny somewhere on the board.
You can bend and cut the ATtiny pins, so that the whole thing becomes flatter.

It could be better, It was a budget build for fun. I got the PSX out of the trash in really bad shape it looked like its been water damaged on the bottom of the circuit board / power supply. Some one tried to feed the power & reset button food. The laser needed calibrated and it still only reads at 75% of the time . I happen to have a bunch of rainbow wire. Build total = $1.50 The black tape was just to get the wires out the way for the picture, I encapsulated the attiny85 in hot glue and ran it through the whole where the cd drive cable goes. I think it will hold up fine, but if I did it again I would use smaller wire for sure.

"You can do what ever you put your mind to son"