PSNee further development

General information to do with the PlayStation 1 Hardware. Including modchips, pinouts, rare or obscure development equipment, etc.
rama3
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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » July 27th, 2017, 9:55 am

Very interresting!
I guess I'll have to sacrifice a board for testing now.
Pull off the entire IC and replace it with PsNee driving the bits.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by Oxygeen » July 27th, 2017, 6:33 pm

rama3 wrote:Broke the pad on the Nano, or broke it on the PSX? The PSX has many places to take Vcc from. Just don't take it from any analog sections.

By the way, I don't know if the Nano is compatible.

Aw sorry i meant pro mini... And i broke the pas on the PSX...

Do you have a sort of schematic where i Can find other Vcc points on a PU-18 board ? :)

I found this : http://modchip.aeug.org/install/508-pu18-stealth.html
http://modchip.aeug.org/install/508-pu18.html

But i don't know if VDD refers to 5V or 3.3v...


I soldered almost everything correctly, but there was à short circuit Somewhere.. decided to unsolder what i've done ans then... R.I.P SQCK /SLCK pad on the PSX...

Any ideas of fix ?

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » July 28th, 2017, 2:27 am

The labeling might be Vcc, Vin, Vdd and many more. It depends on the context of the circuit you're working with.
In our context, it means 3.5V. You can take any 3.5V point on the mainboard, for example "point 1" here:
http://www.fatcat.co.nz/psx/install/550 ... m3pu18.jpg

For SQCK:
SQCK is pin 26 on the HC-05. You can try soldering directly onto that pin. Fortunately, it's an edge pin.
But yea, as with MasterDomino, please be more careful and use the right tools.
Pads shouldn't just casually rip off.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by kalymnos77 » August 1st, 2017, 8:40 pm

I started assembling the diagram for the installation, there are several to complete(I do not have these models at home, nnd I do not want to do patterns without testing them).
https://github.com/kalymos/PsNee/blob/m ... iagram.zip

If you have better schema I will add them.

P.S
I still made a diagram, if you see mistakes, tell me.
Image

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » August 3rd, 2017, 7:41 pm

Here's one more PU-18 pic:
PU-18.jpg
In the Github readme, the following line can be removed:
"PAL PM-41 support isn't implemented yet. (ToDo)"
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Re: PSNee further development

Post by oriki » August 11th, 2017, 10:19 am

Hey. I'll admit that I'm very new to the scene, but I'm interested in installing PsNee into my PSX (PU-22 board). I've already ordered an Arduino Pro Mini for the task, but I'd like to know if any specific tools (soldering iron tips, specific gauge of wire, etc) are otherwise recommended, and if there's a good guide for points I should solder to on the mainboard.

Thanks.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by CodeAsm » August 11th, 2017, 5:59 pm

old IDE cable wires work, but most wires made for (not mains) electronics will do fine I gues. Where ever you got your arduino from might have the right wires too. 20/30AWG.. dont realy care, colored ones would help you. grab an old device and get those wires out from the mainboard to some subboard ;) those type.

Solder... ehm, yeah for electronics ;) I tried using solder for Piping, not good. Leadfree is "safer' but generaly a bit harder. most ebay/aliexpress sell solder with lead in it (you can find leadfree tho). just take some with flux in it (most have) not that hard. local stores maybe have those solder too, ask for electronic solder.

Soldering iron... well, you gonna do it with whatever you got right? its posible to do with one of those mainline solderirons that have no temp controll and a big tip for soldering mainwires or powersuplies. its posible... but I suggest getting a nice smaller temprature controlled iron, one of those stations ;) If you got the money, a Weller or Hakko are your good choice. China sells clones, and those are mostly fine too. as long as the tip is small but the station has a great thermal conductivity... wich is hard to tell, and not everyone knows what this means so its hard to find accurate number for these on the cheaper devices. Electrinic stores generaly have good/fine ones, not the cheapest but they do their job.
This one has temprature control, also sold in stores all over the world
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/60W-220V ... 27081.html
Aoyue 936 is a hakko clone, it accepts hakko and clone tips and comes with some. get this, another clone or a true hakko and you fine for the first few years. especialy if you just start. please do look arround for reviews http://www.eevblog.com/forum/ is a great place to get soldering support or reviews about whatever item for electronics.

Anyway, I started 15 years ago with a crappy old iron from my dad, it worked... used the wrong flux (dont realy need that if its in the solder). piece of solderwick would have been my saviour, I had a desolderingpump but they dont realy always work.

600F (315C) is good for SMD, but your doing some wires so 700F (370C) might do the trick. but heres one, I do most my work on 300C (im european). anyway, try it, if it doesnt work, go higher. but dont exceed the components temprature. 600( 315) seems a good start to try the arduino with.

Take all the time to do soldering... well, arround the actualy soldering. dont keep the heat applied for 5 minutes... 1 minute is long. just a few second till the solder melds, add the component and attach, away the iron and its fixed. Wires can be "pretinned" meaning, just add some solder to the wire in advance ;) helps alott.

My tips, others might disagree. This is the internet afterall.
Good luck :D
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Re: PSNee further development

Post by pre10c » August 15th, 2017, 5:57 am

hey, ive soldered all the wires up as they are supposed to be. but it doesnt boot any copied disks ( no matter what region)

board is a pal pu-18, and im using a 3.3v arduino clone.

anyone know what could be wrong with it?

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » August 15th, 2017, 6:22 am

You'll have to provide more information, pre10c.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by CodeAsm » August 15th, 2017, 6:49 am

@pre10c maybe picture of your solderjob and wich PSnee version did you program?
(are you sure its on the arduino? you flashed blinky lights on there first to see your programming works?)
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Re: PSNee further development

Post by pre10c » August 15th, 2017, 8:27 pm

ok so i got it working but only getting black and white image, so i guess i'll have to do c-sync mod to get it working in color?

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by TriMesh » August 15th, 2017, 9:42 pm

I assume you mean it's only working in black and white for NTSC titles? PAL should be displaying correctly in any case.

The easiest way to fix this (especially since you are presumably in a PAL territory) is to use an RGB wired SCART cable and connect the console to the TV using that. If you don't have an RGB capable display, then you will either need to install a 4.43MHz oscillator to the subcarrier input of the video encoder and force the encoder to PAL mode at all times (this will give you PAL 60 with NTSC titles), or get a 53.693MHz oscillator and wire it to the NTSC clock input on the GPU (after cutting the trace that currently hooks the NTSC and PAL clock inputs together). This will give you standard NTSC in NTSC mode and exact video timings, and is generally the better approach if you can get the parts.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by pre10c » August 16th, 2017, 1:23 am

Yeah it isnt working for ntsc disks, pal games run just fine. The scart to rgb is the one with the red green and blue at one end yeah? Or the one with red white yellow?

Thanks in advance

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by pre10c » August 16th, 2017, 6:40 pm

Would these work?

Gratis Verzending 20 stks/partij crystal/4.43 M/4.433619 MHZ/HC-49 S/passieve kristal
http://s.aliexpress.com/mEviQ7Rf
(from AliExpress Android)

Also is there any tutorial where to place these?

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by lupod » August 16th, 2017, 11:53 pm

With a PU-22 in a SCPH-7502 and an Arduino Uno I am getting strange readings on the SUBQ signal. The SQCK seems to be fine, at least it looks like some sort of clock signal. Logging it to the serial console, it changes about every 40-50 lines (I guess the logging itself affects the number of Arduino cycles per SQCK cycle, right?).

However, the SUBQ signal seems to be just random ones and zeroes, and occasionally just goes HIGH for a certain ammount of time.

Here are three logs from the serial monitor, starting with power on:

Without the drive installed: https://pastebin.com/qsgKM5vG
With drive and original disk: https://pastebin.com/pVe7z5kX
With drive and backup disk: https://pastebin.com/njVxCjBs

On power on, SUBQ seems to go HIGH constantly. After a second or two, there are some readings until the CD drive squeaks (see comment in the log) and suddenly there are those constant HIGH readings with "FF FF FF..." in between actual readings (while I doubt these are actual readings, looking at the SUBQ package description from this thread).

Without an oscilloscope I can only watch the serial monior. I logged the SUBQ readings and I found that it goes HIGH for a certain ammount of time after plugging in (still turned off) and then again after power on (see logs). When the device is unplugged, the SQCK is still running and SUBQ keeps giving that random signal.
Do you have an idea what might be going on?

It still plays original disks without any issue. I assume the signal on IC304.PIN-26 is actually used by the system and if the signal itself would be faulty, it would not boot original disks anymore, right?

I am a professional programmer but an electronics hobbyist and I have no idea what's going on. Maybe the PU-22 behaves differently in a 7502 than in a 7501? Maybe there are different timings in different versions of the PU-22? Or maybe it is an electronics issue on my side, but I resoldered SQCK and SUBQ twice with different kinds of wires and I was lucky enough that the soldering worked out fine until now.
I had already successfully modded a SCPH-5502 with an ATmega328 without bootloader. However, after the setup worked on a breadboard, I bricked the device trying to install the chip inside the case, so this is my second try.

There has been a log of a PU-22 in this thread, which does not have the constant HIGH signal on SUBQ: https://pastebin.com/r8ShqScs

My wiring is the same as in this picture which is also from this thread:
rama3 wrote: Anyway, let me draft a crude pic for the last version and your PU-22.
Here you go:
Image

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » August 17th, 2017, 1:01 am

Okay, I'm thinking about it. I can already tell you that you get somewhat correct readings occasionally.
The lines that start with '41' are the correct ones.
So your connection points are most likely fine but something else is wrong.
It looks like you get clock pulses all the time..

You are using 3.3V for power, right?

A bit of theory:
The Arduino isn't getting its clock from the PSX. The subcode sampling is asynchronous and runs all the time.
When the 12 byte buffer is filled up this way, the code quickly checks if this is a special subcode and if it has to inject license symbols.
It then goes right back to sampling again.
In normal operation (everything wired up correctly, valid subcodes come in), there will be short bursts of subcode data, followed by a long idle time. I use this idle time to do all the extra logic like logging and deciding what the situation is.
Last edited by rama3 on August 17th, 2017, 1:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by lupod » August 17th, 2017, 1:17 am

rama3 wrote:You are using 3.3V for power, right?
That was it! I did not think about this because it worked fine with the SCPH-5502 (but maybe injecting at 5V destroyed the protection diode on the chip and bricked it).
Now I connected the device's 3v3 to the Arduino's IOREF and it worked on the first try. This may be useful to be included somewhere in the code near the pin mappings (maybe I am not the only one overlooking this). [Edit: Don't do that]
Thank you so much for all your effort with this project!
Last edited by lupod on August 17th, 2017, 11:32 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » August 17th, 2017, 1:26 am

Glad you got it working now!

I've got a couple notes :)
I don't think IOREF is a power pin. You should connect the PSX 3.3V (often also called 3.5V) power to the Arduino '3.3V' or 'Vcc' pin (differs between models). IOREF sounds more like a reference for other devices.

The 5502.. Yeah, that sounds like that's what happened.
I tried to get the 5V warning out in as many places as possible and I thought I had it in the source code as well.
At some point, I must have lost that part though, as I can't find it now. This will be fixed.
The install diagrams should still tell people to use 3.3V though.. I hope.

Edit:
The 5502 could still be working. I found them pretty sturdy when I made my mistakes ;)

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by lupod » August 17th, 2017, 1:41 am

When I use the Arduino for debugging, it is powered from USB. Even when not connected to USB, the makers of the Arduino board say "Supplying voltage via the 5V or 3.3V pins bypasses the regulator, and can damage your board. We don't advise it." (https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3)
So when I followed the instructions (with just a little experience with the arduino), I just connected it to USB, and hooked up the signals from the PSX (which was obviously a bad idea because then it's 5V). When connecting 3.3 to IOREF, the Arduino is still powered from USB, but works with a logic level of 3.3V. [Edit: It's the other way around; IOREF tells external hardware about the Arduino's logic level]

When I installed the ATmega328 on the 5502, I powered it from the VCC on the psx (I even measured it). Which unfortunately means that it was bricked while already on 3.3V. So I either damaged the board earlier, when debugging on 5V or something else happened (damaged the drive's ribbon connector when disassembling etc.). Thanks again for your help!

Edit: I am not trying to say the instructions are unclear about 3.3V. However, after only a handful of Arudino projects, I thought "Isn't the Arduino 5V? The instructions don't mention some kind of level converting stuff, so I just go for it and try". And as I said, it worked (at first) with the 5502 so I thought I am doing it right.
Last edited by lupod on August 17th, 2017, 4:17 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: PSNee further development

Post by rama3 » August 17th, 2017, 2:06 am

The (1.8V) vs 3.3V vs 5V logic levels are a big beginners trap. By chance I bought an Arduino Uno clone that has selectable regulators. A switch makes it possible to pass the 5V from USB, or use a 3.3V regulator. I really recommend this design!

I've added the warning and fixed a timing problem with the PAL PM-41 patch. The new version is attached to this post this time, so the formatting isn't lost when kalymos updates it on Github.
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